Sunday, November 4, 2007

Undue influence of wine critics.

So, a major wine critic recently wrote about his own personal preferences for wine. We also have recent a study pointing out that consistently high scores from recognized critics will put upward pressure on the price of wine. Throw in the absolute idiocy of the 100-point scale, and we get a wine market that's skewed (in the premium categories) to the tastes of a few influential critics.

It's insane. Wine publications push the 100-point scale because status consumers like saying they have the hot bottles (wine-pun intended) that JL, RP, et al. love. The new, wannabes make wines that sell -- before a single vintage is released -- for over $100 a bottle (sorry, but buying Screaming Eagle is different from knowing wine). And I don't think I need to say anything about Bordeaux.

It makes absolutely no sense for a global industry to operate in this manner -- and why it simply cannot last forever. As morbid as it may be, it will be interesting to see what happens to the value of Cult Cabs should the heirs to JL and RP have different tastes.

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