Wine cures or prevents everything.

I foresee the following conversation:

Me: Honey, I think I want to buy this bottle of Cheval-Blanc.
Lovely Young Lady: (Looks at the price). No.
Me: But it'll help prevent me from getting a cold.
Lovely Young Lady: (Rolls eyes).

Yep, that's exactly how I see that conversation going down.

So I've been lax in my duties....

Yeah, I know, I haven't posted in a while. What can I say? Work's been busy.

On the other hand, I've had all sorts of fun going to the candy store lately. Which, as a note, being a wine lover and going through bonus season is really, really dangerous to one's checking account. Curse the French, and the relatively weak dollar.

Dilema....

What does one do when one wants to enjoy a bottle of wine during the day, but also hopes to go to the gym with the lovely young lady later in the night?

Forgoe the wine.

When is the right time to open a bottle?

I was recently asked at a dinner: when is the right time to open a special bottle? My answer was straightforward: if the wine's ready to drink, make your own "right time." Invite some special friends over and open a bottle. Go on a date with someone you love and open a bottle. Go on a road trip to a bed and breakfast and open a bottle that night. Since the best time to enjoy wine is often when one is happiest, open a special bottle during such a moment. So, for my Grange, or many of my Insignia, or most of my Ports, I'll open them when they're ready and when the mood strikes.

However, there are also a handful of wines that I have reserved for some very special moments. And in this case, there are some wines that should be saved. Hopefully I'll be sharing them with the lovely young lady. These wines are, in no particular order: a 2001 Chateau d'Yquem, a 2002 Joseph Phelps Insignia, a 1995 Chateau Cheval Blanc, and a 1977 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port. Care to make any guesses for which occasions I would like to open them?

Undue influence of wine critics.

So, a major wine critic recently wrote about his own personal preferences for wine. We also have recent a study pointing out that consistently high scores from recognized critics will put upward pressure on the price of wine. Throw in the absolute idiocy of the 100-point scale, and we get a wine market that's skewed (in the premium categories) to the tastes of a few influential critics.

It's insane. Wine publications push the 100-point scale because status consumers like saying they have the hot bottles (wine-pun intended) that JL, RP, et al. love. The new, wannabes make wines that sell -- before a single vintage is released -- for over $100 a bottle (sorry, but buying Screaming Eagle is different from knowing wine). And I don't think I need to say anything about Bordeaux.

It makes absolutely no sense for a global industry to operate in this manner -- and why it simply cannot last forever. As morbid as it may be, it will be interesting to see what happens to the value of Cult Cabs should the heirs to JL and RP have different tastes.

Kosta Browne Sonoma County Pinot Noir 2005

This wine exhibited a wonderful, light red color. Cherries, raspberries and truffles on the nose, with spices and cola on the palate. Amazing, lush finish. The downside? At 15% alcohol, it took almost three hours for the lovely young lady and I to finish it. Four out of five stars.

UPDATE: Rethinking the Kosta Browne. After some time, the one thing I keep thinking about is how hot this wine was. That extra 1% (or 2%, compared to some wines) of alcohol really does matter. I don't think I could have had another bottle of that wine the following night -- or even within the next week. After all, alcohol's a toxin -- and as much fun as wine can be, I really can't have too much in a week. Revised rating: Three and a half stars out of five due to its excessive heat.

Diversity is good for wine.

The good professor has a recent post with the headline: Do you cellar rosé?

For me, the answer depends on what one means by "cellar." If by cellar, one means age, then the answer is easily "no." There are many wines that are very, very enjoyable young and while they're still fresh.

Still, I never know what I, or the lovely young lady, might be in the mood for. A Rosé, a Beaujolais, a Sauvignon blanc... never know. And when we open a bottle, it tends to be when many good wine stores are closed. So, I like to keep a few bottles that are not meant to age for a casual night in (besides, it helps me keep some of the bottles that really need to be aged around longer).

A to Z Pinot Noir 2005

A nice, light Pinor noir from Oregon. Cherry, raspberry, spice and cola on the nose. The palate was light with nice acidity. The finish wasn't that impressive. Very drinkable and, at $20 a bottle, a great bargain for Pinot. Three out of five stars (for value).

J Cuvee 20 Brut NV

Mmm.... I'm not normally a fan of sparkling wines, but this wine was right up my alley. Apple and yeast, with toast on the palate. The acidity is at just the right level -- a delicious wine to share! Three and a half out of five stars.

The "hollow middle" and wine.

One of my favorite blogs has an article that mentions another of my favorite topics, the "Hollow Middle." I'll let Mr. MacEwen sum up the "Hollow Middle" model:

"An increasingly prevalent industry structure sees firms migrating both to the high end, high-value, premium quality level, and to the no-frills, low-end, commodity level, with little comfortable territory remaining in between."

As an example, Mr. MacEwen points to jug wines and Screaming Eagle -- wines at the extreme ends of the price spectrum. Oddly enough, I've been thinking about the same thing lately due to an ongoing debate on Wine Spectator's various blogs (see here, here and here) about the skyrocketing prices of new releases or the lack of value from some regions.

So, why have I been thinking about this issue with regard to the price of new releases of wine? I think we may be seeing the creation of the Hollow Middle in the wine world. First Growths and Cult Cabs are pushing the prices for new releases into the upper $100s -- if some producers haven't reached the four digit price range yet, they are approaching it. So, what does this mean for the rest of the market?

First, for the "premium" wines, it raises the ceiling on the asking price on release. For example, Penfolds Grange currently releases at $250 a bottle. A Clarendon Hills Astralis releases at $350. If the top bottles from other countries release at at least $500, where does that enable producers to move the price on these bottles to? If the market for First Growths and Cult Cabs is sustainable, those producers have a few $100s they can add to the price of a bottle.

Second, for the "commodity" wines, they can continue to exploit a market for everyday consumption. A $20 or $10 (or cheaper) bottle of wine is a bargain by comparison to a $500 wine.

So, what happens to the mid-range producers who cannot compete at a few hundred dollars a bottle? Consider someone who produces wine that costs $75 a bottle -- They can't compete (in terms of perceived quality or investment potential) with a "premium" wine. If that producer happens to be located in a region with high production costs (e.g., Napa Valley) -- costs which will continue to increase (e.g., illegal immigration crackdowns) -- he or she cannot reduce the price for each bottle of wine to match those producers whose wines retail at $10 to $25 a bottle. In effect, the mid-tier producer gets squeezed. Thus, thanks to increased globalization and the Hollow Middle model, we may be on the verge of some major changes in the wine market. Will the mid-tier producers be around ten years from now? Maybe not....

Economics and wine.

I have been thinking a lot about the economics of wine -- everything ranging from pricing strategies for premium wines, to changes in immigrant policies on the price of wine, to the effects of the current market uncertainty on wine auctions. I'm going to focus on the last issue for this post.

Wine auctions are one of the few places one can buy older vintages of first growths and other "exceptional wines." Lots frequently sell for thousands of dollars and, should one of those lots include a case of older Romanee-Conti, the prices can get astronomically high. Needless to say, these auctions are at the height wine consumerism.

But, if the market is getting tighter, or there is a slow down, shouldn't that be reflected at wine auctions? Numbers from the first-half of 2007 appear strong -- but that would be expected, as those auctions were held before the subprime market crunch. So, as a potential sign of the economy's health and a sign on the current the wine market itself, I'm curious to see how the following questions play out:

(1) By percentages, how many lots are sold in Fall '07 compared to Spring '07?
(2) How many lots have their reserve option exercised, preventing the sale?
(3) For comparable wines, what are the prices sold in Fall '07 compared to Spring '07?
(4) By percentages, how many lots are sold to foreign investors in Fall '07 compared to Spring '07?

A downturn in 1-3 and an uptake in 4 could be a harbinger of things to come....

Distracted from wine.

I know I'm passionate about wine... and I just threw a really fun wine party tonight (I've mentioned it before). I've enjoyed two wines tonight that would normally leave me thrilled and amazed.

But, I'm not thinking about the wine. What does it mean when a "lovely young lady" is on my mind, rather than the exceptional wine I just enjoyed????

Grgich Hills Paris Tasting Commemorative Chardonnay 2003

Birthdays are a great time to celebrate. Last night, I had a small, intimate celebration -- just a "lovely young lady" and I -- and we opened a bottle of the Grgich Hills Paris Tasting Commemorative Chardonnay 2003 with dinner. This was a special wine for me, and it probably deserves a little story before I get onto the tasting notes.

Grgich Hills was founded as a joint venture between winemaker Mike Grgich and the Hills Brothers. Mike Grgich, before starting Grgich Hills, had worked for numerous Napa producers, including Chateau Montelena. At Chateau Montelena, he crafted a Chardonnay which Steven Spurier then included in the 1976 Paris Tasting -- which won the top white. Thus, this bottle that I opened commemorated this event -- making it a perfect bottle to celebrate another 30-year "anniversary."

As for the wine itself, it had no signs of oxidation and a beautiful golden color. The nose had elements of citrus (mostly lemon) with a touch of peach and maybe mango. The body was rich and moderate acidity. Golden apples dominated the palate, with the finish transitioning smoothly to hazelnut. A bottle that I've dreaded opening -- simply because I knew I could never get another one -- but glad I opened with the right person on the right night. Four out of five stars.

30th Birthday

I was born in 1977 which, sadly, was not a great year for wine. Well, unless the wine happens to be Port. So, trying to find some wine with a "30" theme to open for my birthday has proven tough (and expensive). But, why should I let that stop me?

So, two days after my birthday I'm throwing a small party, and I'm opening some wines that have a 30 element or that I have a special appreciation for. First, a Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour 1977 Cabernet Sauvignon -- the only table wine from my birth year that I've been able to find! For whites, I'm planning on opening both the Grgich Hills and the Calera 30th anniversary Chardonnays. At this point, people will be nice and sloshed, and the table wines will shift to the Dom Martinho Quinta do Carmo -- I wine a first tried while eating at a cafe on the Douro river during my 28th birthday trip. And then, the final wine for the night: a 1977 Graham.

Ok, it's not a trip to Bordeaux, but it will be one hell of a 30th birthday!

Turnbull Oakville 2002 and the Right Tasting Experience

There is a famous study where a mid-range red wine was given to two groups of test subjects. For the first group, the wine was poured from a bottle suggesting that the wine was from a lower grade producer. For the second group, the wine was poured from a bottle suggesting that the wine was from a higher grade producer. Maybe not so surprisingly, the first group thought that the wine was not as good as the second group thought. Basically, one's perceptions can influence how one enjoys a wine. Similarly, some wines just seem to taste better when they're opened with the right person under the right circumstances. Expectations make everything.

Last night, I brought a bottle of Turnbull Oakville 2002 to a dinner I had with a very lovely young lady (who's also a bit of a smart ass -- in a good way). The wine itself was very nice. A lovely purple, with chocolate and blackberries on the nose. The palate and tannins were rich and vibrant, and the aftertaste was lush. A very enjoyable bottle. Of course, I wonder -- did I enjoy the wine for the wine, or did I enjoy it because of the great company I had? I suspect the latter played a strong part....

Name versus quality.

Last Sunday, I drove out to Napa for the afternoon and visited three wineries: Cakebread, Grgich Hills and Opus One. I don't have much to write about Cakebread -- their wines show a solid effort and would probably pair well with food as they are neither too weak nor too strong, but they lacked any flair or electricity.

Grgich Hills, on the other hand, not only offered some solid efforts, but presented me with three outstanding wines. First, the 2004 30th Anniversary Chardonnay captured exactly what I like about Chardonnay. Crisp, medium bodied and lacking the signs of malolactic fermentation that I think kills the grape. I have to go back within the next month, as I would to have a bottle of this on my 30th birthday. Second, the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon is phenominal. The fruit concentration was impressive and stunning, but the wine also showed restraint or finesse. Even more impressive that the wine is only $50 a bottle (cheap by Napa Cabernet standards) -- this would easily earn four and a half stars on my scale. Finally, I tried the 2003 Violetta: a very interesting wine. A botrytis-affected wine made of Chardonnay and Riesling, it was similar to but very different from a good Sauternes. Even though it was not carbonated, it had what I called a "fizz" on the palate. Very enjoyable, and would probably make a great accompaniment to a crème brulée.

Finally, I went to Opus One and tried their 2003. Eh. I mean, it was a good wine -- no clear flaws, and showed a little more character than the Cakebread wines. But, here's the kicker: it retails for about $250. If it retailed for about $50, it might earn three and a half stars. As it is, it gets two and a half. So, here is one of the classic problems with the current wine market -- many people would buy the Opus One because of the name, and equate that name and price with quality. Those same people would pass over the Grgich Hills, due to lack of total name recognition and with the mistaken belief that cheaper isn't better. While I enjoy the fact that I could buy more of the better bottles under this market, doesn't this speak to why prices for top-flight wines have continued to rise at an astronomical rate?

Francois Chidaine Montlouis Sur Loire Les Boumais 2005

An amazing wine. Yellow and gold color throughout. Honey, melon and ginger on the nose. The palate has a surprisingly strong medium body, that remains thick and creamy. There is a crispness underneath, but the body is just too strong to let it come through. The palate also adds a touch of nut, and it remains coated in the mouth on the aftertaste. A truly great white, maybe even a little better with more cellar time. Four and a half out of five stars. Buy it if you can find it!

Quinta do Vale Meao Douro 2004

An interesting contrast to the Quinta do Vale Meao Duro 2003 that I tasted a few weeks ago. There was a similar nose of plums and spice on the nose, however the tannins were much, much stronger (mouth puckering, so). The wine also exhibited clear signs of oak, which gave it a milk chocolate texture. A very good wine, and may be even better two years from now. Four out of five stars.

Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon 1996

Sadly, this wine was on its last legs. Not as good as the Dominus, but still had some strength left in it. Definite red fruits on the nose, and the palate had surprisingly moderate-to-strong tannins. However, whatever fruit the wine still had was located on the nose, with little to none continuing once it hit the tongue. After a little bit of time, the wine did show some mocha and vanillan notes. In short, I think this wine has seen better days, and I am glad I did not wait a year to open it. Three out of five stars.

Clos du Bois Marlstone 2002

A Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. The deep purple color has started to turn ruby at the edges. When opening the bottle, I was struck by how powerful and fragrant the wine is -- and, unfortunately, I knew that I had opened the bottle too soon (impressive, since this wine is at least five years old by now). Currants, plums, cloves and vanillan on the nose. Very firm and sturdy tannins on the palate, which adds a touch of chocolate to additional flavors of dark berries. The finish is seductive without overpowering. In short, a great wine that probably still has a few years of improvement ahead of it. Finally, at $50 a bottle, it feels like a steal compared to other California or Bordeaux producers. I've never done this before, but I'm giving this punchy red five out of five stars.

Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva 2004

With my dishes finally arrived in San Francisco, I decided to make a basic: Veal Parmigiana. To go with what is generally a light meal, I picked a Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Reserva 2004. At approximately $20 a bottle, it was a surprisingly great find. Clear cherry on the nose, with light to medium tannins and additional red fruits on the palate. The aftertaste is minimal but, hey, it was a cheap bottle of red (and when added to the ingredients, it did some amazing things to the meal). However, I would not say that this wine should be set in the cellar for consumption a year from now. A very strong three out of five stars.

Faux oenophiles.

Tonight, I had the pleasure of meeting a faux oenophile -- my first experience. A faux oenophile is someone who doesn't appreciate wine for its qualities, but rather for the status it projects. How did I spot him? When I asked about his favorite wines, he focused on a well known (and expensive) producer and expressed his appreciation for the wine only because it was "smooth." Later, when asked about specific bottles he had in his cellar, he could not recall names. In short, he exhibited a lack of depth yet retained an eagerness to express the cost of his "taste." In terms of individuals who cause more damage to the wine market or wine consumers, the only person I loathe more is the Philosopher King oenophile -- one who treats their knowledge of wine as being so specialized, that they are above criticism.

A new city

I apologize for the absence, but I have been consumed lately with a massive (and fundamental) move. As the picture suggests, I have transplanted from the East Coast to the City By the Bay, lovely San Francisco. While I will not go into all of the reasons for the move, I will say that wine had a part to play in my choice. After all, if there is any city in the United States that is associated with wine, it's San Francisco. More details on the move (and guidelines for other people who may have to move wine) to come!

Cooking with wine: a cautionary note.

By way of a general warning, be careful while cooking with wine. While the wine is redacting, the alcohol may still be present. I am a little tipsy after trying cooking with Syrah....

"Offerus" 2003

Lovely ruby color, and pepper dominant on the nose with some dark fruits underneath. The tannins do not seem particularly strong, and though the finish includes further pepper notes. Two and a half out of five stars -- a decent wine, though there are better Rhones out there.

Screwpull or Corkscrew?

Ok, it's time to admit something: I save corkscrews. Maybe because I never throw anything away, but I like to keep them. I've also found that they make a great memento of great wine.

Unfortunately, even a good, regular corkscrew can destroy a cork. And a destroyed cork is annoying. First, I can't keep it. Second, I have to filter the dirty cork-bits out of the wine. Too much effort, and a loss.

So, I recently bought a Screwpull -- and what a difference! It has a smooth, easy operation that removes the cork and efficiently takes it off the screw. Plus, the corks have minimal bloating from being removed, and I have not had a single one break (not even on some fairly old wine). Further proof that wine can be expensive....

Plumpjack Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Sometime ago, I decided to conduct a test. I purchased two bottles of the Plumjack Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 -- one to open immediately, the other to open in a few years. I have enjoyed a number of aged California Cabernets, and I wanted to see how one would age. I chose Plumpjack, because of the quality, price (compared to other top California producers, it's cheap) and the tasting notes I found online. Tonight, I opened the "young" bottle.

It exhibited a beautiful purple color, shifting to maroon at the edges. It had powerful dark fruits, including cherry, on the nose along with mouth-puckering tannins. The midpalate added a nice touch of vanilla and a spice that I cannot place (and confirmed the nose's detection of the tannins). The wine shifted smoothly from the midpalate to the finish, which lasted nicely (a great match for steak). In short, it's very impressive right now, but I want to see it mellow out a bit. Four out of five stars.

Quinta do Vale Meao Douro 2003

An amazing red wine, though very, very young. Dark purple in color, going to the extreme of being almost inky black. Plum, currant, spice and cedar on the nose, there were also powerful tannins on the palate. The wine transitioned smoothly from midpalate to aftertaste, which lingered. This reminded me of a young Californian Cabernet Sauvignon even though it was made from native Portuguese grapes (e.g., Touriga Nacional). Truly exceptional, and worth cellaring for at least another year. Four and a half out of five stars (the only reason it did not get five stars was because it's $60 a bottle).

Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes 2001

A half-bottle, this wine was an exquisite desert in and of itself. Honey, apricot and nutmeg on the nose. Creamy and rich on the palate, it lingered for a while. It also turned two friends onto Sauternes. Four and a half out of five stars.

Dominus Estate Napa Valley Napanook Vineyard 1996

Ok, I went with the Dominus. It was exquisite. Currants and sage on the nose, the palate was smooth and perfect with a Venison-based dish. The tannins were also very, very mellow, so I'm glad I opened it now. Four out of five stars.

The Dominus 1996 or the Plumjack 2004?

I have two friends coming over for dinner, and I can't decide between opening the Dominus 1996 that I picked up at an auction last week, or a Plumpjack Cabernet Sauvignon 2004. Decisions, decisions....

Ste. Michelle Eroica Riesling 2006

Honeysickle and lemon on the nose, while mineral, crisp and acidic on the palate. Powerful, even after trying many wines last night. Wonderful. Three and a half out of five stars.

Ridge Three Valleys 2005

I'm not a fan of Zinfandel, so I can't pretend that I am. I usually find them too dominated by fruit and alcohol to be truly enjoyable. However. I liked the 2005 Three Valleys. The fruit was light, and the alcohol did not stand out. Quaffable. Three out of five stars.

Dow's Vintage Port 1994

From the famous 1994 vintage (a vintage that I do not have any bottles for), this wine had cherry, licorice and chocolate on the nose. It was rich, creamy and smooth on the palate and a nice, if short, aftertaste. Given that it was a 1994, I was surprised how good it was now. Delightful. Four out of five stars.

Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Wow! Smooth and delicious, in spite of its youth. I could have drunk a whole glass, if I didn't have more wines to taste. Balanced. My immediate comment was "If this is the Cabernet Sauvignon, I can't wait for the 2004 Insignia!" Four out of five stars.

Joseph Phelps Syrah 2001

I was not impressed by this wine -- but then, maybe 100% California Syrah isn't for me. I didn't even bother to write down the characteristics of the wine. Two and a half out of five stars.

Penfolds Grange 2001

Seductive and graceful. Dark purple color, with blueberry, raspberry and pepper on the nose. A bottle of this would be great to drink now -- I wonder what it would be like tomorrow. Four out of five stars (saying a lot, given the high price).

Dolce 2003

A Sauvignon blanc that was botrytized, my tasting notes describe it as "8 out of 10 on decadence scale." Honeysuckle, apricot and butterscotch. Absolutely delicious, and a dessert on its own. Buy it if you find it! Four and a half out of five stars.

Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

A pleasant surprise! After sampling many, many wines that night, the Cabernet still exhibited a strong cocoa flavor. As I put in my tasting notes, I would love to try it sober. Four out of five stars.

Maison Louis Jadot Pouilly Fuise 2005

Eh. A French Chardonnay, this did nothing for me. It had typical Chardonnay characteristics, though extra mineral texture. The acidity seemed light. Two out of five stars.

Jean Luc Colombo Les Ruchets Cornas 2001

A 100% Syrah wine, it had the characteristics of a great Rhone. Typical Syrah fruit flavors, though they did not dominate. It is great to drink now and is a perfect meal-wine. Three and a half out of five stars.

Heitz Bella Oaks Vineyard Cabernet 2001

This struck me as basic Cabernet, without any distinguishing features. Given the price of a bottle, this was incredibly disappointing. Two and a half out of five stars.

Chateau Mouton Rothschild 2003

Wow. The wine was incredibly closed, though it hinted of greatness. I picked up cherry and currant notes, though I thought I also detected olive. Firm tannins, and I would love to try this wine in ten years. I am not going to give a rating, as no one should be buying this wine to drink now.

Beaulieu Vineyard Reserve Dulcet 2003

About two weeks ago, I enjoyed a delicious Shiraz Cabernet, so I was excited to find a Cabernet Syrah from Beaulieu Vineyard. At the Philly Wine Festival, the BV table was pouring the 2003 of this wine. Cabernet was clearly the dominant varietal, as the wine exhibited typical Cabernet fruit flavors (the hostess said that Cabernet was 75% of the wine). However, the palate contained the expected Syrah pepper. I would describe this wine as a drink-that-night wine, but also a great accompaniment to a hearty dinner. Three out of five stars.

Sixth Annual Philadelphia Wine Festival

Yesterday was the Sixth Annual Philadelphia Wine Festival -- an event made up of at least a hundred producers pouring multiples wines. In short, if someone was willing to pay the fee, they could try a lot of great wines, or just get really hammered. I tried to steer a course between the two options.

Some of the more interesting moments of the night? I ran into a co-worker and her husband, and spent the evening running into them again as we exchanged recommendations of producers to try. Also, after visiting the Silver Oak table, I saw three girls get generous pours only to discard them quickly (they didn't like the distinctive oak flavors). Oh, and I was able to try a Mouton-Rothschild and a Penfolds Grange (however, it was funny to watch other attendees pass the Mouton-Rothschild table for the Chaddsford table). So, no complaints.

My first wine auction.

Tonight, I attended my first wine auction. Actually, it was a huge wine-related event. Before the auction started, there were cooking demonstrations, delicious samples and local retailers pouring wine non-stop. There was also a silent auction (during which I happened to score a set of Ashton Churchills for a steal), and live music through out the night. But the big event was the main wine auction -- up for bid were such interesting items as a Chateau Petrus 1961 (it went for $7,000), a vertical of Penfolds Grange from 1997 to 2001 (that went for $1500 -- though I was tempted to top the last bid, I held back), a 1994 Dow Vintage Port and many, many other items.

I've never bid in a wine auction before, and I was surprised by how fast paced it was, leaving little time to think about what one should bid. But, I can say I came away happy. After the failure of the Penfolds Grange, I ended up winning the bid for a collection of 96 Dominus, Insignia and Shafer Hillside Select, and a bottle of Cheval-Blanc. I'm excited about opening all of these bottles, though the Cheval-Blanc is the most interesting. I feel a little old, holding a bottle from the year in which I graduated high school, but it will be worth it. And yes, I will avoid opening it while eating a burger and drinking from a Styrofoam cup.

Adelsheim Pinot gris Williamette Valley 2005

Apple and citrus on the nose, though too light on the palate. Enjoyable, but nothing truly distinguishing. Two out of five stars.

Basel Cellars "Claret" 2003

An enjoyable red with cherry and other dark fruits, with moderate tannins on the palate making the wine thoroughly enjoyable with a Roomano Gouda or other light meals. Moderate aftertaste. Three and a half out of five stars (with an extra half-star for value).

Wine-a-palooza

My next three weeks are going to be jam packed with all sorts of wine-related fun!

First, Monday night I am going to Tria, my favorite wine bar in Philadelphia, to meet a lovely young lady for a glass or two.

Second, on April 20 I am going to the Evening with the Masters Wine Auction. I hope to enter a report of the night's festivities (and maybe enter a futile bid or two).

Then, on April 27, I am going to Philadelphia Wine Festival -- another great chance to meet people who enjoy wine and work in the industry, plus to sample some producers I have not yet tried.

Finally, on May 5, I am going to my next Tria Fermentation School on Alsatian Wines.

So, I have an unsually busy three weeks ahead of me -- and, hopefully, with plenty of new information to post!

Vintage Port

James Suckling has posted a blog entry about vintage Port ($). Suckling is probably my favorite Wine Spectator editor (probably because he comes off as very down to Earth and unassuming), and he is an avowed Port connoisseur -- as this entry shows. His last line sums up the greatness of Port: "Vintage Port is a wonderful drink with wonderful traditions. . . ."

Not only is Vintage Port an amazing wine, but it has a rich history and culture. Among some families, there has been a custom of buying a case of vintage Port for a newborn child -- obviously, a great gift to give someone when they became an adult (a concept that I'm probably going to follow when/if I ever have any children, though I'll probably throw a First Growth Bordeaux and a d'Yquem in for good measure).

Another great Vintage Port tradition is how to pour the Port. When a group gathers to drink a fine Port, they sit around a table and pass the decanter from "port to port." Starting with the host, each person passes the decanter to the person on their left, who then pours into passer's glass. But, should someone not have the Port poured into their glass (or should their glass run low), the ask the person on the left if they "know the Bishop of Norwich." If no Port is poured and the response is a "no," the questioner says something like: "He's a great fellow, but he's mighty stingy with the Port!"

Chalk Hill Sauvignon Blanc 2003

Great translucent, straw color. Minimal acidity, with great focus of citrus, grass and something like a tangerine on the nose. Mildly crisp on the palate, though there is a decent aftertaste.

But even better, I had it with what I'm calling my lemon-lime chicken salad. Very easy to make: (1) one lemon-pepper chicken breast (cut into 1/2" pieces); (2) one red pepper half, cut into 1/4" pieces; (3) one eighth of a red onion, cut into small pieces; (4) hearts of romaine or buttery leaf lettuce; (5) any lime based dressing. A delicious meal, and it goes well with a light white wine!

Joseph Phelps Merlot 2001

Mmmm. Blackberry, cedar and tobacco on the nose, with a burst of spices of the palate. The aftertaste lingers, and this wine would make a great companion to a juicy steak. This is a tough call between being either a four or three and a half star wine... but I think I'm going to be generous and give it four stars out of five (as a note, the Joseph Phelps Merlot 2002 is an easy four star, maybe even earning four and a half stars).

Tria Fermentation School

Tonight, I attended my first "class" at the Tria Fermentation School. The theme was "Lafite-Rotchschild Around the World" -- essentially, the wines produce by Lafite-Rothschild outside of their first growth estate in Bordeaux. Seven wines were opened tonight, and it made for a great chance to try a lot of different wines. It was a great night, and I learned some new and interesting things. Plus, I couldn't help but smile at the instructor's frequent digs at California wine -- while I enjoy a good California Cabernet, those wines sometimes focus too much on power, and not enough on finesse.

Bordeaux Blanc "Reserve Speciale," Lafite-Rothschild 2005
A Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend, with an excellent aroma of lemon and tropical fruits on the nose. The palate was smooth with some crispness. Three and a half out of five stars, with an extra half star for value. The Reserve Speciale makes for a great party wine.

Moulin de Duhart 2002
Awful and vegetal, though it may have been a bad bottle given Wine Spectator's tasting notes. Nonetheless, I would have drunk it if I was in a pinch. As it was, I took a single sip and moved on. One and a half out of five stars.

Chateau d'Aussieres 2004
A delicious blend of Syrah and Grenache, with a nice touch of spice and smoke on the nose, followed by a well-rounded palate. The aftertaste lingered without losing flavor or quality. Four out of five stars. I will buy a bottle of this wine!

Quinta do Carmo Reserva 2003
A fresh do Carmo Reserva and, as expected, delightful. Blackberries and coffee on the nose, with a light palate (the instructor claimed that this was a big wine -- I would beg to differ). This Reserva would be great as a purchase to go with an evening dinner. But, like other do Carmo's I've tried, I would not store this wine out of hope that it would improve. Three out of five stars, loosing a half star for price and another half star for lack of aging potential.

Vina Los Vasco "Le Dix De Los Vascos" 2003
Black fruits, cherries and oak on the nose, and the palate showed strong, lasting tannins. Great now, but I have to wonder how delightful it will be in a year or two. . . . Four stars out of five. Another wine that I will buy if I find it!

Bodegas Caro 2003
A Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon blend, it had a great touch of what I call the Malbec punch -- that element of spice (though not like a Rhone) that a nice Malbec has. The Cabernet helped add some dark fruit flavors. Three and a half out of five stars. Another wine I will buy if I find it....

Chateau de Cosse 1999
While no d'Yquem (but, that's never a fair comparison), this was still a delightful wine to finish the night with. Honey, apricot and pineapple on the nose, and a very smooth palate. Nonetheless, it seemed cloying. Three out of five stars.

Daniel Rion Bourgogne 2005

Lightly colored, with spice and cherry on the nose. Very smooth on the palate. Drinkable with dinner or on its own. Also, a great value if you can find it. Three and a half stars out of five.

Lesson learned....

Do not give bottles of wine as a Christmas present if the recipient's interest is mild or limited. The bottles will end up in interesting spots -- such as on a shelf, in direct sunlight and in the kitchen.

Groan....

Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

Strong vanilla on the nose, with additional elements of herb on the palate. This wine was so heavily oaked that the fruit was drowned out by the strong vanilla flavors. The tannins were nicely balanced, and the wine was very enjoyable with a hearty dried angus New York strip steak. However, upon further thought, the quality of the wine did not justify the price -- causing me to discount what rating I would normally give this wine. Three and a half out of five stars.

The search for a special bottle of wine.

There is no doubt that I am a huge fan of Joseph Phelps Insignia wines. Until today, I owned a 1999, 2001 and 2003. I have tried all of them, and enjoyed each of them thoroughly. However, for the past year, I have been trying to track down a Joseph Phelps Insignia 2002. Every description of this wine has captivated me... this sounded like a wine that I had to try. When I have bought Insignias from other vintages at various stores, I would always ask if they had a 2002. The typical response was laughter. It seems that, when a certain magazine named the 2002 as wine of the year, the stock of 2002s on the market dried up.

Today, I found my 2002. I decided on a spur of the moment to go to a wine store that I frequent about once a month. I went into the back -- into the climate controlled environment -- and reviewed the racks. There, I saw the telltale signs of an Insignia bottle and almost overlooked it. Fortunately, I looked closer and saw that it was a 2002. Needless to say, I had to ignore my monthly wine budget and grab that bottle. I was so excited for the find that my heart was racing when I brought it down from the rack and carried it to the cash register!

Searching for that one, special bottle is one of the joys of being passionate about wine. It requires persistence -- sometimes bordering on obsession -- and yet the joy of finding that bottle you've been searching for and eventually opening it with a special someone, family or great friends makes that search worthwhile. I cannot wait to enjoy this wine under the right circumstances and with the right person.

Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc 2005

A lovely light straw color. The nose had mango or peachy notes, with a perfect touch of spice. The palate has a nice zing, picking up some herb. Three and a half out of five stars (extra half star for value).

Dr. Konstantin Frank Riesling Reserve 2005

Very pronounced mineral notes on the nose, with some apple underneath. On the palate, the mineral stood out though the fruit characteristics were hidden by the acidic nature of the wine. It was almost necessary to have this wine with a meal -- the acid was so strong, that I could not imagine having it alone. I also suspect that it would have been fantastic if I waited a few more years before opening. Three and a half out of five stars (and wishing that I had bought another bottle).

Does wine require an advanced degree?

I often hear other people say "I like wine, but all I know is what I like or don't like." This view reflects a fallacy, I think, that is sadly encouraged by many wine advocates and marketers. One easily knows of people who encourage such a view -- anyone who eagerly plays up their knowledge of a subject. Someone who likes to make others feel inferior by what they don't know. Such a person deters others from learning about a subject because of that person's desire to play up their knowledge or to say "no" too often without saying "yes." Such hubris has no place in life (whether it's wine or any other subject), and simply deters others from learning about all the wonderful things that wine has to offer.

All that one needs to know about wine is what one likes and does not like. First, it starts with the varietals one likes. From there, it turns into what characteristics of those varietals one likes. For example, I prefer older Cabernet to younger Cabernet. While fruit is important, I also want tobacco and other flavors. Fruit bombs, while tasty, are not preferred. All this knowledge comes from experience -- no classes, no professional training. Just simple experience.

So the lesson, if there is one, is to try what one can, and to avoid anyone who feels like he or she must make themselves important by making one feel insignificant.

Quinta do Carmo Alentejo 2001 and Faded Wine

I had a Quinta do Carmo Alentejo 2001 when it was first released. At the time, it seemed mature and balanced. The wine had a nice touch of dark fruits with minimum tannins, and went very well with a meal. In short, the wine was delightful.

I opened another bottle of this wine tonight, and something seemed off. While still present, the fruit was diminished. Whatever tannins had been present seemed inconsequential. While still recognizing the wine I loved, it wasn't how I remembered it. Like a former lover whom one sees after many years, the wine had lost the charm that once made it attractive.

Wine is a living, breathing thing. It rewards those who are passionate about what the world has to offer. Some wines, when treated lovingly, will grow and expand through out an entire life. Others are only short lived -- leaving their best behind in their youth. What's more, one can never really be sure how long a wine will last. So what is one to do? For me, I'll always hope -- and try to avoid regretting waiting too long.

Renwood Viognier 2005

Orange and honey on the nose, continuing through the palate. Little to no acidity, making the wine cloying. Drinkable, but not much else going for it. Two and a half stars out of five (with a half star bonus from the almost plonk-ish value of the wine).

Grgich Hills Napa Valley Chardonnay 2003

Nicely acidic and crisp, with strong citrus on the nose. Definite tree fruits on the palate bringing to mind a golden delicious apple, and nice spice on the finish adding a great punch. This Chardonnay was not made with malolactic fermentation, meaning that there was no buttery texture and that it would probably last for at least another year. Further, the acidity would help it accompany any meal, but it was so balanced that it could go down on its own. Three out of five stars -- which would have been higher if the bottle did not cost approximately $50.

Vasco Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino 2001

The first Brunello I've ever opened, and it was delicious. Red fruits -- definite cherry -- along with tobacco and some tar. While young and fruitful, it was also balanced and made me think of it as a cross between a Pinot noir and an aged Cabernet. Three out of five stars.

Marques de Riscal Rioja Reserva 2001

Awful. The nose smells, at best, of mushrooms. There is no texture to the wine -- it tastes flat, with no fruit or any other positive flavors. I suspect it's tainted. Drink only to get drunk. One star out of five. No regrets over opening this bottle, as it clears out my space for other selections.

Sorry for the hiatus.

I have been terrible, and have not posted anything in the past week or so. Unfortunately, I've been busy sorting out some things -- including making some career plans that will involve a very fundamental change in the next few years. I hope to post more in the coming week, including more tasting notes. Also, expect a deluge of notes sometime after March 17 -- I plan to try at least three or fourCabernets that day!

UPDATED (3/26/2007): Ok, I had a wine party on March 17, but I was too busy socializing to put down all of my notes. Anyway, the wines tried that night included: (1) Lake Sonoma Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2003; (2) Martin Ray Cabernet Sauvignon 2003; (3) Berringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1999; (3) Leoville-Barton 1998; and (4) Warre's Vintage Port 1985. The Lake Sonoma and Martin Ray were enjoyable, but nothing special (two and a half to three stars, each, with maybe another half-star for value). TheBerriner seemed bitter (three stars, with maybe an additional knock down for lack of value), but I thoroughly enjoyed the Leoville-Barton (easily three and a half stars). And the Warre's? The nose smelled of licorice candies and walnuts. A delightful end of the evening drink. Easily four stars out of five.

Elitism of wine.

The good professor raises the "sad commentary on the role of wine in American class warfare." The only sad thing about this commentary is that it's a role that the wine industry and the wine consumer class have self-imposed. I admit it -- I am very fortunate to have a significant income stream. However, even I look on a $1479 auction price for a 1999 Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon as obscene. But never mind the higher end of the wine market -- walk into a wine merchant, and an average consumer would see $50 prices for many bottles of Cabernets, $20 to $50 prices for Chardonnays and even prices upwards of $60 for Merlots. And that's without considering the French wines.... For someone making about $40,000 a year, any one of those bottles could cost about 10% of a weekly take home pay -- a luxury that many people can afford only for the most special occasions. And if one can only consume wine on a special occassion, how does one view someone who can afford to consume wine for less-than-special occasions or in large gatherings? So, is wine a sign of elitism? The answer, unfortunately, is yes.

Ratings system.

It is time to explain my ratings. First, I decided to use a five-star rating system to help me keep track of wines that I really enjoyed – but it is purely arbitrary and will depend on whatever my whims are on a given day. I am also using a five-star system instead of a 100-point system because I think the 100-point system is misleading – I would applaud anyone who can tell the difference between 90, 91 and 92 point wines. Instead, I prefer smaller groupings, which I think the five-star system (with half-star increments) allows.

Second, a wine's rating will be based on three factors: (1) quality; (2) aging potential and (3) value. In particular, I emphasize quality and value – if a wine is strong in both of those factors, that may account for up to a 1-star adjustment (where an adjustment occurs due to quality and value, I will note so in the description). Further, while a wine's aging potential is important, that is a relatively minor factor for most consumers. Thus, a wine's aging potential – while important – will account for at most an extra half-star.

With that explained, it should be obvious that I would avoid a 1-star wine – for the record, I've only ever had one wine that would warrant a 1-star (though that was probably corked). A three-star wine should be average –either of average quality and price, or good quality but excessive price. I strongly doubt that I will ever identify a five-star wine – such a rating would require a wine to be fantastic in quality, have excellent aging potential and be a great value. I'd love to find a wine that meets those standards – however, the secondary market has probably foreclosed such a thing from happening for the foreseeable future.

Crozes-Hermitage Paul Jaboulet Aine "Thalabert" 2003

A working trip to NY lead to having dinner at Sparks -- and an excellent wine for a very good price.

Sparks is an absolutely delicious steakhouse to eat at. The steaks are sooo juicy and tender that they can be cut with a butter knife. A strip steak and a baked potato will leave one full for hours – and the price is great for the quality of the meat.

But since this is a wine blog, I felt I would do a disservice to any of my readers (if they exist) if I did not review the wine list. What can I say? The selection was fantastic and the prices were very fair. In fact, I spotted a number of bottles that had a 50% mark-up, at most -- a great rate for a restaurant of this caliber, given that many high-end places will inflate the prices by up to 300%.

The wine I picked for dinner was a Crozes-Hermitage Paul Jaboulet Aine "Thalabert" 2003. The Thalabert is a 100% Syrah wine. Deep purple in color showing its youth, yet it had the structure of an older wine. Definite fruit on the nose with a distinct earthiness underneath. The palate was dark berries, and iron notes were also identifiable and strong. Very drinkable, and great with the steak. I'd rate this at four out of five stars based on the quality to value ratio alone.

Something fishy?

Does anyone else find the details of this theft to be suspicious? In particular, the fact that "[t]he perpetrator had a discerning palate, leaving behind lesser vintages."

WillaKenzie Aliette 2001

A delightful Pinot noir. The aroma was glowing with fruit, and the palate was a delightful combination of cherry, dark fruits and eathiness (more soil than moss). Very enjoyable, though there was probably more alcohol in the wine than the label's indicated 13.9%. Three-and-a-half out of five stars. I'd buy another bottle, if it weren't for all of the other bottles I want to try, first!

Glasses, pt. 2

Harvey Steiman has started an interesting discussion regarding a new Riedel glass designed just for Oregon Pinot noir. In light of my recent post on the subject, I decided to add my two cents.

First, if there is any wine that justifies variations for different terrior, I'd have to go with Pinot noir. It's a grape that -- even to my relatively untrained palate -- varies greatly by where it is grown. Thus, a Riedel Burgundy glass may not do an Oregon Pinot noir full justice. That being said, I won't buy one of these glasses -- even though I love Oregon Pinot noirs. As a sampling done last night confirmed (notes on that to come), the Burgundy glasses do improve great wine. I'll be happy to use them for Burgundy-cousins, and let other, more profligate spenders buy these glasses.

Second, I wonder if having too large a collection of Sommeliers series glasses is to Riedel's benefit? Is this an example of trying to be an innovator, ahead of the curve? Or is this pushing that curve too far, and diluting Riedel's market? Right now, my money's on the latter -- unless there is a demand for New World glasses that highlight the fruit-forward nature of New World wines.

Does the glass matter?

One who reads more about wine quickly learns of the views held by many professionals that some glasses help a wine taste even better. In particular, glasses made by this company. So, is there any truth to this view?

I had been dating someone who shared a love for wine. I gave her a pair of Riedel Sommeliers Bordeaux Grand Cru glasses for Christmas. And to match those glasses, we opened a bottle of Joseph Phelps Insignia 1999 -- a Meritage -- for our Christmas dinner.

We were amazed by how much the glasses influenced the wine. First, the glass directed the bouquet so that one could identify the aromas even when holding the glass at least eight inches under one's nose. And then tasting the wine! The wine was balanced and elegant, with a full arrange of flavors appearing on the tongue. We then tried the wine from a more mundane glass, and the aroma and the flavors were not as developed. The glass mattered for this experiment.

I have since repeated this test with Sommeliers glasses designed for Pinot noir, Rhone-blends and Chardonnay. The Chardonnay -- matched with a 2004 Martin Ray -- had a similar effect. Likewise, the Rhone glasses were sampled with a 2003 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert -- fruit on the nose with gravel underneath, and the palate contained dark berries and iron (the iron may not sound delicous, but it wonderfully added structure). On the other hand, at least two tries with the Pinot noir glasses fell flat -- however, each attempt was with rather low end Pinot noir and Burgundy.

So what do these experiments mean? Should one who enjoys wine buy any of the Sommeliers glasses? I think the answer is: it depends. These glasses matter when drinking very well made wines. However, for a wine that is lackluster to begin with . . . well, a glass cannot fix that, and may even make it worse. So, the question any oenophile must ask is:

(1) For the wine that I drink, is it good enough to be improved by a specially designed glass?

(2) Am I willing to forgo a few bottles in order to get some glasses that will make all of the other bottles I have taste that much better?

My answer: I'll use the glasses for the wines I really love, and not bother with the rest.

A Three Year Anniversary

Three years ago this month, I discovered wine. The bottle that caused it? A Taylor Fladgate Tawny Port 10 Year. Even more than its sweetness, I remember how smooth and refined it was. The flavors were in harmony -- and I knew how good a wine could be. Since then, I have spent a lot of time and effort to learn more about wine. But still, I am looking for opportunities to learn more because I still do not know enough. Thus, this blog.

My goal for this blog is simple: it will give me the chance to develop skills and knowledge so that I can appreciate wine even more. Also, too many wine books are written by either professionals or very experienced amateurs. I hope that, in approaching wine from a novice's perspective, I can help others starting out to avoid the same mistakes that I have made and will make. At times this blog may stumble, but hopefully it will improve with age.

On that note, may your glass be full and you never have to ask anyone if they know the Bishop of Norwich!