Alpha Omega (yet again).

I made a trip over the weekend to Alpha Omega winery pick up my allocation their 2006 Era (which, btw, comes in a very sleek packaging and is labeled at a surprising 15% alcohol considering how harmonious it was when I tried it in the barrel a few months ago). While there, I stopped and sampled a few of their current releases, a pre-release, and some of their library wines.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Delightful red cherries and matured tannins. Drinking very well right now but could still benefit from a few years of aging. This would make an excellent dinner wine with a wide array of dishes. Three and a half stars out of five.

Merlot 2006
This wine was just off. Enough spice on the nose to make me think it was a Syrah. Earthy on the palate, its fruit flavors were muted. Could have benefited from more pronounced fruit characterists. Two stars out of five.

Chardonnay 2005
One of the wines that got me to fall in love with this winery. Banana and creamy nose with medium weight on the palate. I grabbed two bottles of this for a dinner the future Mrs. H. and I are throwing this coming Saturday. Four stars out of five.

Chardonnay 2006 (pre-release)
Similar to the 2005, though fuller body. The nose had a distinct element -- not unpleasant, just hard to place. Perhaps butterscotch? Maybe nutmeg? Either way, a fun wine that could prove very food friendly. Does it have serious aging potential? Maybe.... Three and a half stars out of five.

Unaoked Chardonnay "Beth" 2007
I'm just not a fan of this bottling. Too much pear for my taste (though if you're a fan of pear, you'll love this wine). Three stars out of five, but YMMV.

Syrah 2007
Surprising raspberry notes with muted spice. The wine was red in color and not inky at all on the palate. Completely unexpected and delicious. Drink now, or age for a few years to see how it grows. Three and a half stars out of five.

D'Arenberg Laughing Magpie 2001

Rich, inky dark wine. Intense blueberry and spicy pepper notes on the nose. Tarry and tannic on the palate, with a little heat marring the finish. Typical sipping wine -- not really built for dining. YMMV. Two and a half stars out of five.

Kim Crawford Pinot noir 2007

Cherry and Asian spices on the nose, with balanced acidity on the palate. An inoffensive wine would make a nice accompaniment with any meal. Two and a half out of five stars.

Why I try to avoid politics in a wine blog.

Aside from a silly post in which I attempted to be fairly even handed with the candidates running for office, I try to keep politics out of this blog. Why? See these unintentionally silly posts from Steve Heimoff in which he compares the election of Obama to the defeat of Nazism, or throws in a cheap claim conservatives would take away all freedoms but for the Democrats (support by the Democrats and Progressives to ban foie gras, ban cigars, or enact Prohibition notwithstanding).

A wine blog should be about wine, and not an addendum to the Daily Kos or Powerline.

Charles Krug Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Dark and inky color with blackberry, plums and tobacco on the nose. Rich, chewy tannins and a touch of spices and herbs on the palate. Tasty and cheap, and drink within the next four years. Three and a half out of five stars.

How will restaurants respond to the economic downturn?

Here's an interesting article from Slate arguing that restaurants need to retool their current business plans in the face of an economic downturn. Here's the current situation:

The emphasis on wine has a simple explanation: Wine sales are the lifeblood of many restaurants. Ronn Wiegand, a Napa, Calif.-based restaurant consultant who holds the rare Master of Wine degree, says that wine accounts for 10 percent to 15 percent of total sales for casual restaurants and as much as 60 percent at fancier establishments. Restaurants generally have low profit margins and thus need to slap markups on pretty much everything they put on the table. But a $250 Bordeaux is obviously going to make a far greater contribution to the bottom line than a turnip. . . . For decades now, markups of 2.5 to three times the wholesale price have been the industry norm. According to Wiegand, such multiples are an economic necessity for most restaurants; anything less and they may have trouble sustaining themselves. But not every wine on the list has to be marked up at the same rate. So long as the average cost per bottle is in the 2.5-to-three-times-wholesale range, list prices for individual wines need not follow any formula. And, in fact, most restaurants that take wine seriously use a system of progressive markups: They generally slap the biggest markups on inexpensive wines and the lowest ones on pricy bottles (the idea being that the closer an expensive wine is to its retail price, the more apt the customer will be to bite).

But with consumers pulling back on their spending, some retooling is needed:

The easy profits are over, and restaurants hoping to weather the recession ought to think about dialing back their wine prices. Kevin Zraly, a New York-area wine educator who helped pioneer the use of progressive markups when he oversaw wine service at Manhattan's Windows on the World, says that at this point, restaurants just need to fill seats and should scale back their wine markups as a way of attracting diners. "Wine is a tool to get people into restaurants, and in this economy, wine prices need to be dropped to do that," he says. "We had adjustable-rate mortgages, now we need adjustable-rate wines." He also says that restaurants that allow customers to bring their own wines but charge relatively high corkage fees should think about reducing the amount they charge for BYOB. Zraly believes $20 per bottle is a reasonable tariff.

Restaurants that charge $35+ for corkage and sell their wine for 3x-retail will get eviscerated. There is no bigger turn-off to going to a restaurant, seeing a bottle of wine that is already overpriced at $50 retail, offered for $100+ on the wine list. And when the natural impulse is to save more, consumers will become even more reluctant to purchase such insanely priced bottles. In short, the restaurant sector is another part of the wine sector that is due for some shaking up in the current climate. The bubble's over....

Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1977

Just amazing. Shows a lovely red color, with rose-colored touches at the rim. Dried cherries and sweet, delicious tobacco on the nose. The palate still has a lot of fruit and, while the tannins have mostly faded away, it has excellent body. Just an amazing wine. Four out of five stars -- and drink up now!

Be Friends Villages Bourgonge 2005

Light red color shifting to salmon at the rim. The wine had bright cherry notes and spices on the nose. The palate is light -- little tannins, and soda-like acidity. Two and a half out of five stars.

Alpha Omega Late Harvest 2006

Straw to light gold in color with low rim variation and slow legs. Pineapple, peach, and honey on the nose. Nutmeg and caramel flavors coat the mouth, giving a creamy texture with a little spice on the finish. Unfortunately, the acidity could be a little more pronounced. Three and a half out of five stars (though this wine s on the pricier side).

Pax Richards Family Vineyards Syrah 2004

Rich, powerful blueberry and raspberry fruit meld with smokey bacon on the nose. That same fruit covers the palate, along with some chalky tannins that show this wine's potential to age. Finally, at 15+% alcohol, this wine amazingly shows no heat. Four out of five stars.

E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone 2005

The future Mrs. H. and I have been continuing our search for great value wines to serve at the wedding. I think I found a winner for the dinner.

Lush dark fruits and blackberry on the nose combine with a touch of earthiness that melds into rich, creamy mocha on the palate. The tannins are just perfect for a wine that would match a delicious steak entree. At $14 a bottle, this makes for a great value. Three and a half stars out of five (with a half star for value).

Wine and the downturn.

The Wine Economist has two interesting posts on the impact of the economic downturn on the wine market here and here.

On how the current credit freeze will impact wineries' ability to obtain the funding they need throughout the year:

Even if the Treasury rescue plan is a success, I still believe that credit will be much tighter for the next three years (some of my colleagues think it will take even longer to work though the credit cycle). This will have serious effects because so much of the real economy has become dependent upon ready credit to finance business operations and to fund customer purchases. Winegrowers are obvious potential victims of this trend. Winegrowing is a risky business with special credit needs and an overall credit freeze could have serious effects that may extend all the way from the price and availability of the grapes themselves to the value of vineyard properties. Retailers and distributors may also need to scale back their operations to match their reduced access to credit.

Second, there are already signs of the "hollow middle" being, er, hollowed out:

There is a lot of turbulence in the middle of the Wine Wall ($4-$10), which is the heart of the market in some respects. Microdata harvested from grocery store loyalty card programs suggests that buyers really are trading down from $7.99 to $5.99, for example. Since the cost of making the distributing a $5.99 wine is not $2 less than a $7.99 wine, trading down has a big effect on producer and retailer profits. Wine may be recession proof if you look only at overall volumes, which have held up pretty well for the industry as a whole, but don’t expect revenues and profits to tell the same sanguine story.

Finally, spending patterns may be seeing a shift:

So while some people will trade down to lower price, others will trade over — to a different idea of wine that allows them to spend less without feeling like they are giving up their lifestyle. I’m still serious about wine, their choices say, but I don’t take my self so seriously all the time. I like to have fun with wine and so I’m buying wine that reflects this fact now.

Here at House H., wine spending has dropped tremendously over the past few months. There are a number of first tier wines that I am passing on now (e.g., Penfolds Grange, the 2005 Leoville-Barton) as that same budget could be spent on more wine and for less. Value has become the watch-word, with wine that I find well-made but over-priced being pushed to the side (e.g., Grgich Hills Cabernet and Chardonnay). Focus has shifted toward a combination of short-term consumption with a smaller portion dedicated for long-term aging. In all, it makes for an interesting phase during which to maintain a collection!

Alpha Omega Sauvignon Blanc 2007

The lovely future Mrs. H. invited her sister over tonight, and we all opened the only bottle of this wine we had (darn -- the winery is sold out!). Perfect wine for a relatively warm night.

Yummy passion fruit, mango, and meyer lemon. The passion fruit and mango continues on the palate, with nice acidity that isn't tart. Delicious, and great with a light meal. Three stars out of five, and drink within the next two years.

Note: the future Mrs. H. was not a big fan of this wine, preferring the Grgich Hills Fume Blanc instead.

Alpha Omega Unfiltered Chardonnay "Beth" 2007

Lustrous gold color with strong pear and peach on the nose. The palate adds even more white fruit. Generally full-bodied. Very pleasant wine, and would be even better with food. Three and a half out of five stars.

Avoid elitism.

This blog post provides an excellent summary of why I canceled my subscription to Wine Spectator:

The one thing I can come up with, at least from my California point of view, is that there’s a body of opinion in this State that Wine Spectator is arrogant. This isn’t to say that the magazine’s personalities in California aren’t nice people. It’s just a perception that Wine Spectator has been a little too elitist, too hilfalutin for its own good.

Scroll down in the same post for a reply from Wine Spectator (which I think was focused more at the issue of the Restaurant Reviews than the charge of elitist).

Dominus Estate Napa Valley Napanook Vineyard 1995, pt. 2

It's amazing what a little bottle variation can do. Last time I had this wine, the tasting note was wildly different. About the only thing in common is that this wine is still amazing.

Still a lovely, deep purple color. Black currant and mocha nose, with a touch of mint hidden underneath the dark fruit on the palate. The tannins are still mouth-coating, though in perfect balance right now. Wonderful. Four and a half stars out of five.

Michel Gros Bourgogne 2004

Last night, the lovely future Mrs. H. and I had dinner with her family. Due to the sheer number of September birthdays in her family, they hold a communal family-birthday-dinner. I basically took it upon myself to order the wine for the table (a bad habit on my part, as I often have to look at the wine list for any restaurant). For the red, I picked the Michel Gros Bourgogne 2004.

Classic Burgundy red wine. The nose was rich in earth but eventually opened up to reveal light stone fruits. Smooth and relaxed on the palate, it lacked significant tannins and had moderate acidity (certainly not as zippy as other Pinot noirs). Over all, a good restaurant wine at a decent price. Two and a half stars out of five.

Names for wedding reception tables?

Instead of calling the tables at the wedding reception "Table 1, Table 2, etc.," is it lame to name them after varietals? And, if so, how much offense should one take to being seated at the Pinotage table?

Detert Family Vineyards Cabernet France 2005

The Lovely Young Lady and I opened a bottle of the Detert Cab. Franc for no real reason other than to enjoy some wine while we relaxed last night. I'm still impressed with this wine from when I first tried it about half a year ago.

Inky purple color, and chocolate, cassis and olives on the nose. The palate had chalky, lip-smacking tannins and very strong fruit structure. Initially, there was some heat on the finish. Fortunately, a little aeration helped to smooth it out. A very delicious sipping wine -- about the only food that could stand up to it would be a juicy steak. Still needs a few years to mellow out. Three and a half stars out of five.

Wine Spectator's credibility called into doubt?

Check out this post from Vinography, and the links within the post, regarding Wine Spectator's Restaurant Awards. If true, this is damning.

UPDATE: See the additional comments to the Vinography post. Also, see here for Wine Spectator's response.

Warre Otima 10 Year Tawny Port

I love the Lovely Young Lady. One of the vices she tolerates -- nay, encourages -- is a monthly cigar in the apartment. After a busy weekend (which basically went from us celebrating our anniversary to me working all day on Sunday) and a busy week, I was in need of my mid-month cigar. Stopping at the local grocery store for some victuals, I picked up a bottle of the Warre Otima 10 Year Tawny Port. I have not had a Tawny in a long time, and I was about due. [Oh, and by the way, I am still amazed, after growing up in Pennsylvania, that I can buy decent wine at a Safeway.]

Solid red color with amber hues, with caramel, plum and licorice nose. The palate is smooth, fruity, and sweet, but also powerful enough to remind me of Dr. Johnson's famous quote: "Claret for boys, port for men but brandy for heroes." Pleasantly little heat on the finish (unlike way too many rubies worth mentioning), the Port makes for a pleasant nightcap. And being a 10 Year Tawny, the open bottle will keep for the next few days, allowing me to polish it off. Three and a half stars out of five.

Napa: elegance vs. fruit bombs.

For an excellent discussion on the ability to make a great Napa wine that is not a fruit bomb, check out this article by Eric Asimov appearing in the August 20 New York Times.

For my own experience with a wine that was amazingly elegant, but also panned by a critic, check out my review of the 2004 Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon.

Yes, Napa can do elegance, and I think Mr. Asimov is right that the market is due for a correction on this point -- after all, too many of the once heralded fruit bombs of the 1997 vintage are proving to be... well, flat.

Frescobaldi Chianti Rufina Montesodi 2003

I opened this chianti with the Lovely Young Lady to drink with with my Italian-themed dinner on Friday night. Eh. Lush, dark fruit aromas on the nose with not-so-subtle touches of smokey oak. The palate was opulent and still tannic. Over all, not really what I expected from a Chianti -- it shows more power than grace or elegance. In fact, it seemed like a Cali Cab. YMMV. Two and a half stars out of five.

Alpha Omega "Era" 2006

Today was the first anniversary for the lovely young lady and I, and so we went to Napa to celebrate. Overall, it was a great day for the trip. We left behind a cold and foggy San Francisco for warm and sunny Napa. We finally got in a visit to Mustards Grill, and followed that up with tastings at two wineries. Because we enjoyed it so much when we went there to celebrate Valentine's Day, we had to go to Alpha Omega again. I am glad we did.

First, Alpha Omega is great for treating everyone there like family. The pourers are clearly excited to work there, eager to discuss almost anything having to do with the winery. While the winery is still under construction, an outdoor patio is complete along with a working fountain. Once all of the construction is done, I hope A/O will get all of the business it deserves.

But, even better, they eagerly offer barrel samples. Today, our pourer, Pauline, pointed us to a barrel sample of the soon to be released "Era" proprietary red from 2006. Wow, wow, wow. Already, this wine shows some excellent craftsmanship. The wine has a nice, balanced red color, and the nose contained almost every element of a Bordeaux-style blend that I love: cherries, raspberries and sweet tobacco were most pronounced. These sensations carried on into the flavors, which also hinted at a touch of mint. The tannins were sturdy but not overpowering -- this is a wine to age for a decade because it will develop, not to round out its edges. Even the lovely young lady said that this was my type of wine. This wine epitomizes class. Easily four and a half out of five stars -- and maybe it will reach five once it gets in the bottle.

So, okay, I bought a few futures -- and now I cannot wait for spring!

A to Z Pinot noir 2006

Cherries, Asian spices and toast dominated on the nose (the Lovely Young Lady also picked up on the toast). The palate was fruity and a little more tannic than acidic. Not a bad wine, and one the Lovely Young Lady and I may serve at the wedding. Three out of five stars.

Trefethen Estate Merlot 2004

For good or bad, this wine reflects the really big, powerful California style of wine making. Dark fruits of plum and blackberry combined with toast on the nose. The palate coats the mouth with rich, chewy and chalky tannins. Maybe a little too powerful for my taste -- it lacks a certain degree of elegance at the end of the day. Two and a half stars out of five.

Chateau Branaire-Ducru 2001

A lovely St. Julien wine that combined blackberry, leather and cedar on the nose. Tannins were not too pronounced on the palate, though it made an excellent pairing with lamb. Three and a half out of five stars.

Turly "Dusi Vineyard" Zinfandel 2006

A very powerful wine with strong, fruit forward aromas and deep purple color. At 16% alcohol, it was surprisingly even-keeled. Rich and plump. Three and a half out of five stars.

Chateau de la Maltroye, Chassagne-Montrachet 2005

Apple and butter notes, with a full body texture. Three out of five stars.

Castellroig, "Terroja," Penedes, Spain 2006

Reminded me of a Sauvignon blanc both in terms of color and aroma. Light citrus and steel on the nose, followed by excellent acidity. Two and a half out of five stars.

Chateau Pradeaux, Rose, Bandol, Provence 2007

This Rose was marked with strong hints of watermelon with undercurrents of strawberry. However, the wine became a bit flabby and could have used some acidity. Two and a half out of five stars.

Pierre Gimonnet, Blanc de Blancs, Cuis, 1er Cru, Champagne NV

Delicious aromas of apple and dough on the nose, and great, zesty acidity on the palate made this a fun and carefree wine. Easy three out of five stars.

Alpha Omega Proprietary Red 2004

Dark red to purple color. The fruit was initially very powerful but poorly defined -- additional decanting brought out cherry and jam, and revealed touches of cedar. The tannins were ripe and coated the mouth. Definitely wait a few years to drink. Three and a half stars out of five.

The Lovely Young Lady.

The other day, the Lovely Young Lady and I took a detour over to Bin 38 in the Marina. After trying a few wines, I was pleasantly surprised to learn two things about her. First, she is very sensitive to brett and does not enjoy it in a wine. Second, she likes the big, fruit-forward style of wine making. I, on the other hand, will find the occasional brett in my wine enjoyable and like my wines with less fruit-dominance and more secondary characteristics that come from aging.

In the end, I had a big smile on my face. On the one hand, I love our differences on these two points as I hope they can make for interesting discussions down the road. On the other hand, I hope I have helped her a little bit in learning what she likes in wine. I find both of those propositions exciting!

Quinta do Carmo 2002

A nice touch of earthiness on the nose, though not enough fruit -- there is a definite presence of brett here, but not too much to make it undrinkable. Very smooth on the palate. Easy two and a half stars out of five.

Wedding wines.

As one can tell from recent posts, I am sampling a bunch of wines for possible selection at the wedding next year between the lovely young lady and I. The general rule is that the wedding wines must, over all, average out to $20 a bottle (some can be more, some can be less). We'll need 120 bottles (not counting all of the bottles we'll need for the Champagne toast) for about 120 guests. This is definitely proving to be a fun challenge, and one can follow along here.

Duckpond Pinot noir 2006

I bought this Oregon Pinot noir as another contender for a "wedding wine." It exhibited very jammy cherry flavors and spices on the nose and had a surprisingly full body for an Oregon Pinot. Sadly, there was little in the way of zippy acidity. A good wine at a decent value, I'd rate it two and a half out of five stars. Probably goes on the bottom of my "wedding wine" list.

Cloudline Pinot gris 2005

Bright citrus notes on the nose with touches of mango and tropical fruit. Refreshing though medium bodied. Has great potential in food pairing, and is a serious contender for the seated-dinner/white wine at the wedding. Two and a half stars out of five.

Continuum 2005

The inaugural wine of Timothy Mondavi's new winery, the Continuum is a very young wine with lots of purple color. On the nose, the wine exhibits very tight fruit aromas with hints of sage and tobacco underneath. Silky smooth tannins coat the palate, hinting at great aging potential. I do not plan to open my other bottle for at least three years. Four stars out of five.

Kunde Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Dark purple color with strong olive aromas. The palate didn't add much beyond chalky tannins. Two out of five stars, and definitely not a wedding wine.

Whitehaven Pinot Noir 2006

Pretty much what I look for in a Pinot noir! Light red color, with cherry and
spice notes on the nose, though no real earth or forest elements (I do like a little). The body had a nice, zingy acidity that tickled the mouth, and also added a touch of cola flavor. At around $25 a bottle (from the local store), it was well worth the price. Three and a half out of five stars.

Alpha Omega Rose 2007

Ruby color with pronounced berry hints and creamy chocolate on the nose. Weightier body than what I am used to with a rose. A very enjoyable wine. Two and a half out of five stars -- though one really needs to drink it now!

Domaine de Beaurenard Chateauneuf-du-Pape Boisrenard 2004

Dark purple color, with a tight-knit nose of blueberry, tar and earth. The palate felt closed... the wine was clearly holding back. The lovely young lady and I opened this bottle way too soon. Does not live up to the 2003. Three stars out of five.

Priorities.

Within the past week, the lovely young lady and I became engaged. The past few days have been hectic as we have been telling all of our friends the news, and looking for venues to hold the ceremony and reception. Then, tonight, I realized -- how the heck are we going to pay for all of it?

A minor panic attack later, and I realized -- duh, we can afford it. It just requires priorities. So, sadly, that means I have to watch what I buy over the next year. Sniff. No 2005 Latour. My biggest priority is spending the rest of my life with the lovely young lady. Everything else comes second to that. So, while that does not mean I am going on a blogging hiatus, it does mean I am going on a wine buying hiatus... er, downturn.

This also makes for a good lesson. There is a little obsessiveness when it comes to wine collecting. Oenophiles tend to have the desire to collect them all. Collect. Them. All. But such consumption should not be one's goal in life. Any hobby -- whether wine, art, model building, or dog walking -- should contribute to one's life, not distract from it.

I am very glad I have this lady in my life, and I cannot wait to see what the rest of life brings.

Question?

Is it appropriate to include a wine store on a wedding registry? The lovely young lady and I will need to know.

Joseph Phelps Insignia 2002

Over a year ago, I blogged about finding a bottle of the Insignia 2002. Tonight, I opened it with the lovely young lady. But, before I give my tasting notes for the wine, a little back story.

I moved to San Francisco a year ago today. The move was a major change for me -- I knew no one here, I had no work connections, and I had no idea what the future promised. I simply needed a change. A year later, and I have met the woman of my dreams, my career is doing well, and I feel like I have finally found a place that felt like home.

So, tonight called for a celebration! The lovely young lady and I prepared a great dinner, and the Insignia 2002 was opened.

What an amazing wine! Royal purple color, with rich aromas of creme de casis, vanillan, and mint on the nose. The tannins are both rich and silky smooth, and the finish lingers for minutes. This is an amazingly rich, opulent wine without being overpowered in any one area. Still has a lot of life left in it, but don't wait -- drink up now! Four and a half out of five stars.

Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1984

Sigh. this wine was just too old.

Though there was a burst of fruit when I opened the bottle and poured it in the decanter, sherry and nut like aromas on the nose dashed my hopes. Distinct, orange color gave further proof that the wine was oxygenized. The palate was completely off, showing that it had passed its prime. One star out of five.

Grgich Hills 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon

Rich, dark purple color. The powerful, dark fruit aromas on the nose -- even though the wine is going on five years! Succulent, silky tannins make this a great wine to savor. And while the label shows that the wine approaches 15% alcohol, it does not come off as hot. Drink in the next two to three years. Four out of five stars.

Art/wine comparison for the day.

From Jean Hoefliger, Alpha Omega's winemaker:

The Pressed wine is the frame of a painting or the base of a sculpture supporting the masterpiece, holding everything together.

J Cuvee 20, pt. 2

I previously review the J Cuvee 20 over eight months ago. Opening another bottle this evening, I was struck by how strongly aromas of green apple poured from the bottle. The nose also still hinted of yeast or dough -- all together reminding me of apple pie. The body contained excellent zest, with a rich, creamy finish. Still drinking strong. Three and a half stars out of five.

Rachel Ray.

Ok, she's not really wine related, but the good professor took an amusing swipe at Rachel Ray (and the Food Network). Among the many reasons to find her annoying, he added:

The incessant, almost frenetic, inane chatter drives me nuts. Why inane? Consider her catchphrase: “EVOO, Extra Virgin Olive Oil.” Why does she abbreviate it? And, having abbreviated it, why does she then repeat it in full? Every single damn time?

Heh.

Hitcens on wine service.

Christopher Hitchens unleashes his acidic pen on wine service at restaurants. Read it here.

News about Joseph Phelps Winery.

James Laube reports:

Craig Williams and Tom Shelton, winemaker and president/CEO, respectively, of Joseph Phelps Vineyards, resigned from the Napa winery on Friday afternoon, according to their attorney.
***
Williams, who joined the winery 32 years ago, has been closely tied to the winery for years, not only as its winemaker, but also its spokesman in many matters. He oversaw winemaking, including the 2002 Phelps Insignia (96 points, $150, 15,000 cases), Wine Spectator’s 2005 Wine of the Year. He was not available for comment.

It is no surprise that I love Insignia; I have discussed this wine here, here (and the lovely young lady may be enjoying this bottle very soon), here, and here. I will be curious to see what happens with Mr. Williams's departure -- but, given the high prices that Insignia has reached since it won Wine of the Year for 2002, I wonder if I will splurge on later vintages given the inevitable changes in style (even if slight) that a new winemaker will bring.

Chehalem Ribon Ridge Ridgecrest Vineyards Reserve 2004

An Oregon Pinot Noir with clear sour cherry and spice notes on the nose. The palate added hints of jam, licorice and zest from the acidity. However, the finish was very hot, leaving a burning sensation in the mouth from all of the alcohol (almost 15%). This wine starts out at three stars and "finishes" at two and a half out of five.

Robert Mondavi, R.I.P.

Robert Mondavi has died at 94.

Fair warning.

A fair warning and reminder from Vinography:

See what happens when you drink wine? Let this be a lesson to you. A few good nights with a few good bottles, and nine months later? Pop. Just like a cork.

Obviously, major congratulations are due!

Knowing is half the battle.

Apparently, May is "Allocation Month," during which all the wineries want their prospective customers to place their orders on each customer's wine allotment.

Ouch.

The lovely young lady will not be happy.

There is something about this quote in this New York Times article that is both funny and true:

Most people in the wine trade understand that consumers have any number of reasons for their buying decisions, whatever their psychological and financial state. Some are reassured by easy-to-understand labels with friendly animals. Others want only naturally produced wines or bottles with a modest carbon footprint. Some are status-seekers and score-chasers, while others are contrarians, or only drink red wine.

But, ignoring the humor, the article later adds this very profound discussion:

What have [wine consumers] done to be singled out from other consumers who might equally be portrayed as knuckling under to hype and salesmanship, like connoisseurs of clothes, handbags or shoes, car aficionados or golf fanatics, food or film lovers?

The answer rests, I think, both in the insecure and uncomfortable attitudes that Americans hold toward wine and in the difficulty of bringing some sort of objective and universal criteria to the fleeting and obscure realms of aroma, taste and texture. . . . [D]rinking more hasn’t made Americans more comfortable with wine. People with little interest in wine tend to see it as somehow foreign and threatening. Even among the curious, fears abound, of being embarrassed or appearing unsophisticated, of choosing the wrong wine, or of liking the wrong one.

Too true. So, how does one better understand, evaluate and appreciate wine?

The trick is to distinguish between the harmful or disingenuous — the marketing come-ons, the point chasing, what the guy next to you thinks — from the beneficial: the food, the company, the environment. Even in a blind tasting situation, wine is evaluated in the company of other wines, which is a different sort of context but a context nonetheless. Perhaps they’ve chosen the best wines to be sipped and spat out, but not the best wines for dinner.

I will post some thoughts on this point later. Until then, I'd recommend reading the whole article.

Joseph Phelps Insignia 1992 (pt. 2)

I first had this wine a few months ago, and it was spectacular. So, last night, when the lovely young lady and I joined a couple at Gary Danko for dinner, this wine seemed like a perfect choice to have with the meal.

And it was.

Cherry, mocha, tobacco, and eucalyptus on the nose, with even stronger hints of mint on the palate. The tannins were smooth and silky, and the wine lingered for minutes. An exceptional wine, and one I would love to get more bottles of. Has many, many years of life left to it. Four and a half stars out of five.

Hubris in the wine market.

Check out this excellent post from Vinography on the hubris of at least one cult winemaker.

Kingston Family Vinetards "Tobiano" Syrah 2005

Dark purple color with jammy dark fruits, clove and black pepper on the nose. Mouth coating tannins and more jam on the palate shift to a bit of heat on the finish. Could benefit from a little aging, but not much. 2 and a half stars out of five.

SF Wine Auction

Tonight, the lovely young lady and I went to a wine auction sponsored by the Guardsmen of San Francisco. The night was a ton of fun (though I am suffering through it right now), and I wanted to point out three fantastic wineries. First, for some truly wonderful Pinot noir, check out Freeman Vinyard & Winery. Second, the Detert Carbnet Franc was the wine of the night. Truly exceptional. Finally, Cheval des Andes was a joint venture between Cheval Blanc and an Argentina producer -- making for a truly gifted and exquisite wine blended from Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon,. In short, this was a great night (which, coincidently, celebrated a big day between the lovely young lady and I), and introduced me to some fantastic wines.

And no, I did not come home with any wine (though I did try to buy some wine from years during which the Germans were defeated in their 20th century attempts at Imperial conquest).

Looking forward to May.

Ok, May is going to be a really busy month -- but also very fun. On the wine note, if all goes well, I will have another tasting note up for a 92 Insignia (in addition to a restaurant review), a 95 Cheval Blanc, a 77 BV Reserve, and a 94 Vintage Port (a little young, but not from a great producer). May could not come sooner!

Alpha Omega Winery Chardonnay 2005

I love this wine -- and it still needs another year or two in the bottle. The lovely young lady and I enjoyed it tonight with two rather carb-heavy dishes, and the wine was a good match. Golden color, and a great "naked" Chardonnay. The nose had strong elements of apple and citrus (maybe even some kiwi, too). And, in the right glass, there was the touch of banana I mentioned last time. The apple continued on the palate, which was full bodied and coated the mouth. I love this wine! Four and a half out of five stars.

El Coto Crianza Rioja 2003

Much, much better than the last Rioja I tasted.

Beautiful, light red color with cherries and spices on the nose. The spices continued on the palate with a nice touch of acidity suggesting this wine would be a great companion to a meal. Two and a half stars out of five, and a great value at $14 a bottle.

Is the wine market due for a price correction?

A few months ago, I wrote about the potential, negative impact the state of the economy could have on the wine market here and here. Wine Spectator's James Laube recently posed this observation:

I expect that the wine market will be challenged in the coming year or two. The main reason, of course, is a slumping economy and most people will be holding on to, and playing more carefully with, their money.
...
Some producers, though, effectively shoot themselves in the foot by setting unrealistically high prices, and often raising them, even when the quality didn't justify the price to begin with. Day after day I come across new wines from new wineries with no track records, and they're asking $50 or more for a Pinot Noir, or $60 for a Chardonnay, or $75 to $175 for a Cabernet. Their justification? I guess the fact that they only made 100 or 300 cases, or that they have a rock-star winemaker, validates the high price in their minds.

But surely in these times, some of these high-priced wines will sell slowly, or maybe they won’t sell at all. Or they’ll sell once the market determines a fair price. And for some of these producers of overpriced wine, by the time the market determines a fair price, it will be too late.

Mr. Laube clearly focuses on new, unproven wineries seeking the premium label from the start. I think he, quite correctly, highlights how exposed these wineries are to an economic downturn. However, he ignores that even established wineries are very exposed.

Applying the theory of the hollow middle, "commodity" wines should not face a serious problem in this market. Cheap wines, after all, can still be bought and enjoyed. Thus, just as people still buy at Wall-Mart during a downturn, people will still buy the cheaper offerings from Robert Mondavi, BV, etc., etc. Similarly, any consumer who could afford Screaming Eagle, Chateau Petrus, Chateau Latour, Harlan, etc., etc., two years ago most likely can afford to buy those wins today (unless, for example, that consumer also happens to be a highly-paid trader at Bear Stearns).

So, who faces real exposure in a downturn?

"Premium" wines that often go from $50 to $300 a bottle, but lack the true investment potential of a collectible. While these may be top quality wines in similar numbers to top French chateaus, they do not have the same reputation that those chateaus have (a rough analogy would be Volvo to BMW).

So, what do I expect to happen during lean times to producers of these wines? If I had to guess, there will be either: (1) drift from these producers to "commodity" wines; or (2) a scale back in production of their top wines to a point where they become collectors items (and, hence, an increase in price due to a more limited supply). But can one expect a 9,000 case run of wines costing over $200 a bottle?

"Don’t get me started on the Gadsden Purchase"

Ok, this press release may not be wine related, but it's super funny.

Work harder!

I opened a bottle of wine this past Saturday that I had before and enjoyed. I was hoping to compare my observations from this past Saturday with the earlier tasting -- and could not find any notes from then on this blog. I really need to post more methodically.

Dominus Estate Napa Valley Napanook Vineyard 1996, pt. 2

About a year ago, I reviewed the Dominus 1996. I opened another bottle this past weekend (I bought this bottle from a different source), and I was struck by the differences between the two. The one I had last year was much more sensual. However, this bottle did not express the same currant notes as the one I opened last year -- but, this bottle still had a faint whiff of dark fruits on the nose. This bottle also had more pronounced herbal notes and a cigar box quality. The palate hinted at some acidity with very mild tannins. I'd give this bottle three stars out of five, and I may have to accelerate how often I attack the remaining bottles.

Stilton and Port?

Is there anything as tasty as some Stilton cheese with Port -- even if that Port is, to be polite, subpar (i.e., tastes like medicine and one would not wish it on one's worst enemeny)?

Yum.

Boekenhoutskloof "The Wolftrap" 2005

A South African wine made from Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, and Viognier. Unfortunately, the wine was very one dimensional, being almost exclusively fruit forward and left me drowning in notes of blueberry and dark fruits. There was no real nuance on the nose or the palate, and the wine did not make a good companion to a relatively basic meal. A "sipping" wine. Two stars out of five.

Clos du Marquis 1997

A "second growth" of the "super second" Chateau Leoville Las-Cases, this wine took at least an hour before it opened up. In that time, the sweet tobacco, herb, and cedar opened up to reveal cherries, currants and maybe even a touch of raspberries (please note, I had a stuffy nose while trying this wine). On the palate, the wine was wonderfully balanced with the tannins were almost a thing of the past and acidity that was perfect for an Italian-like meal . Three stars out of five, and I think I am going to pick up a bottle or two of the 2004 from the local wine store.

Chateau au Pont de Guitres Lalande-de-Pomerol 2003

The dark red color of the wine shows that it has a lot of life left in it -- and its nose and tasting-profile confirms that initial impression. Dark fruits and plum on the nose, with hints of milk chocolate and pine. The palate is rich and smooth, and has the body to age for a few more years. Very drinkable now, with a promise of greatness down the road. At $25 a bottle, this wine is a huge bargain (and even a Merlot-hater would enjoy this wine). Four out of five stars.

Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 and listening to yourself.

A few months ago I was given a bottle of the Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 by a guest to a wine party I threw. Now, I generally love wine as a gift -- but, I looked up a generally influential tasting note about the wine, and it described the wine as dusty and dank. Not a stellar endorsement. Needless to say, I was very reluctant to open the bottle based on that review (and even tempted to re-gift it, I am ashamed to say, if the opportunity presented itself).

But then my opinion started to change. First, as I developed a better grasp of the California wine scene, I realized that I had a very European palate. Probably a result of having been introduced to wine on the east coast, where French and Old World styles dominate (or, at the least, are as prevalent as California wines). Second, I saw reviews of this wine from Decanter -- a British wine publication that gave the Clos du Val a much better review (I tried to find the issue of the magazine for the exact review, but I think my copy went the way of the Dodo). Then, I saw a comment online in response to the earlier critic, asking a pointed question or two about the rating. Finally, after trying some wines that were highly rated by this same critic and discovering they did not suit my palate, I decided that I would give the Clos du Val a chance.

I could not be happier.

Dark berries, cedar and spiced olives on the nose, with decent tannins and acidity on the palate that suggest some life in the bottle. I do not think the wine needs to open up, but I could see it developing the secondary characteristics of leather and tobacco. Very un-California-like, in a good way. At about $30 a bottle, this makes for a great value. Three and a half out of five stars, especially for the price.

Two questions (and answers) as a result:

First, why the possible disparity of my tasting notes from those of the original critic? I can come up with three reasons. The first is that often multiple wines are rated at once, and those wines are compared within region. This wine could easily be lost in comparison to super-ripe and super-extracted Napa Valley cabs. By comparison, it would appear weak and its positive characteristics would be lost. A second possibility is that the critic had a "bad day" and could not enjoy all of the aspects of the wine (think about what a head cold might do to your sense of smell). Finally, even more so than in music or movies, a critic's personal tastes can have a profound impact on how they perceive and enjoy wine. Frankly, of these options, I suspect the first and third played a part -- after all, I enjoy a different style of wine, and I enjoyed this wine on its own.

Second, what does this mean? As a result of those diverging tastes, I was willing to ignore a very good wine because it did not obtain a positive review. This really is a cautionary tale -- one should not let the views of others unduly influence what one enjoys or could enjoy. Instead, find those whose tastes are similar to yours, and look to them for recommendations. But in the end, always look to yourself for what you could enjoy.

Seigneurs d'Aiguilhe 2004

A nice, basic wine that is the second wine of Chateau d'Aiguilhe. Perfectly red color with cherry, stones and herbs on the nose. Light to slightly-moderate tannins and light-to-medium bodied. A very refreshing red wine to drink now. While I am rating it two and a half stars out of five, that is mostly due to its inability to age. Drink and enjoy now!

Wine bars aren't fun?

James Suckling asks (in relation to "beer bars"):

Why can’t wine bars be so buzzy, fun and full of comradery?

Answer: (American?) wine culture is too pretentious to enjoy wine in a pub-type setting. Just check out the advertisements in either Wine Spectator or Wine Enthusiast to see what I mean....

Quinta do Crasto Douro "Old Vines" Reserva 2005

I like Portuguese reds, but I found this wine disappointing. Dark purple colors showed its youth. Overly extracted dark fruits and spice on the nose, along with the extra heat on the palate (I think the 14% on the label seemed a bit low), made me think this was a Zinfandel, and not a Touriga Nacional blend. Definitely not a fan of this style. Two stars out of five.

UPDATE: Based on the traffic surge in the past few days, a lot people are searching for info on this wine. That might have something to do with the fact it was named the 3rd best wine of 2008 by Wine Spectator. Nonetheless, I still stand by my position -- this wine was too powerful and too hot. But if overripeness is your thing, then enjoy!

Chateau Fortia "Tradition" 2005

A surprisingly light red color for the wine's age. On the nose, dark red fruits combined with spice and tar. The tannins on the palate were nice and chewy. Enjoyable now, but it could benefit from a little bottle aging. Three and a half out of five stars.

Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Robusco

A fun, cheap sparkling red wine. Dark red and black fruits on the nose. Bubbly. That's about it. Two and a half stars out of five.

Dominus Estate Napa Valley Napanook Vineyard 1995

An amazing wine. The purple has faded from the color of the wine, leaving a rich, perfect red behind. The nose had strong elements of tobacco and cedar, in addition to touches of blackberry, black currants and leather. On the palate, the tannins were silky smooth and the aftertaste coated the mouth for minutes. Drink now, or hold for a few more years. Four and a half out of five stars.

What's missing from this story?

Take a look.

HINT: the 2005s will be released in 2008....

Alpha Omega Winery and a weekend in Napa.

This weekend included a nice, relaxed (though busy) trip to Napa. I will write more later, but I wanted to focus right now on Alpha Omega Winery. One word: wow.

Alpha Omega is a relatively new winery (their first release was last year), and their prices are relatively low for Napa standards. If you want an idea of what their wines are like, check out the tasting notes for their various wines. In particular, their proprietary red is struck me as being Bordeaux-like -- it will be interesting to see how it ages.

I would describe their late harvest wine as lying somewhere between a Suduiraut and a d'Yquem. Yes, very tasty.

Finally -- the Chardonnay. Definite banana on the nose, along with a host of other flavors. Little to no oak, and no strong signs of malolactic fermentation. And at $38 a bottle, darn cheap (relatively speaking). Exquisite. I liked this wine so much, I am giving it five out of five stars.

Pennsylvania state stores (pt. 2)

Actual exchange after spotting three bottles of Jean Luc Colombo La Divine 2003 (a really great wine I had months ago at Bushi Tei).

Me: "I have an odd question: do you have carriers for transporting wine on an airplane?"

State Store Employee: "No, we don't. You're not allowed to buy wine in this state and take it out of state."

Me:

Red Knot 2004

A Cabernet Sauvignon from McLaren Vale, Australia. Purple color and basic dark fruits on the nose. Moderate tannins on the palate. Aftertaste is a bit tart. Nothing special, but nothing terrible. Two and a half stars out of five.

Pennsylvania state stores (pt.1).

On a completely random note, I picked up a bottle of scotch for a friend whom I have been staying with this week as a token of appreciation for putting up with me. Which, basically required a trip to a nearby Pennsylvania State Liquor store. In case you do not know anything about how Pennsylvania sells alcohol, let me explain. Beer: buy at pizza joints, distributors or other locations. All other alcohol: at state run liquor stores. If you are planning on throwing a party, this requires multiple trips (plus a trip to the grocery store).

Now, there are two types of state liquor stores. The first type serves wine from jugs and very cheap (and very nasty) hard liquor -- thus, this store caters to alcoholics. The other type tries to be a "premium" store. The store I went to earlier this week was a "premium" store, and thus had a number of bottles on the expensive side. However, after walking in from about 50 degree weather, I noticed I was getting warm. Really warm. And the first thought I had upon that realization? "Damn, that's a lot of expensive wine that's been cooked."

Gods, I'm glad I live in California.

I have the wrong computer with me....

My wine list is on another computer... and so I cannot use my downtime to take advantage of this nifty, new Wine Spectator program.

Sigh.

California vs. Bordeaux.

California vs. Bordeaux. Which one appears to give the better value (at least, at the "cheap" end of the scale).

Joseph Phelps Insignia 1992

At fifteen years, this wine is amazing. The nose had mocha, cherry, currant and some light herb touches. On the palate, the tannins were refined and graceful -- like a silken glove. The aftertaste coated the mouth and lingered for what seemed like minutes. A fantastic, fantastic wine that easily has years of life left in it. Recent California vintages cannot match this wine. Four and a half out of five stars -- and I am sooo glad I have another bottle.

Domaine de Boisrenard Chateauneuf-du-Pape Boisrenard 2003

A few weeks ago, the lovely young lady and I went to Michael Mina. The dinner itself was amazing, and the wine was great.

The Boisrenard had clear red and blue fruits on the nose, with additional hints of cocoa and spice. Smooth on the palate, though there were enough tannins to let this wine improve with a few more years of bottle aging. Definitely a great wine, and worth picking up. Four out of five stars.

I'm Back

The hiatus did not last as long as I thought it would. Expect a post this weekend with tasting notes for either a Boisrenard or a Pegau (and maybe a restaurant review), and maybe a few other things that I have spotted over the past week. Then, next week, I'll be traveling -- and hopefully blogging along the way, too!

Dominus Estate Napa Valley Napanook Vineyard 1998

I had high hopes for this wine, especially since I enjoyed the 1996. Unfortunately, the difficulties of the 1998 vintage appear to have hit this wine. The only positive note was some leather on the nose. Unfortunately, volatile acidity made this wine virtually undrinkable (for me). One star out of five (with a strong hit for the low quality/price ratio).

What is wrong with this picture?

I will leave it to the reader to determine what is wrong with the following statement from this Bloomberg story:

``We can feel that there's an increasing market for this [$400 beer], as some of our customers order extremely expensive wines without blinking an eye,'' Lau Richter, restaurant chief at the Noma restaurant, said today by phone. ``Ten years ago, it was a rare event selling a 1,000 kroner bottle of wine at a Danish restaurant, now we do it every day.''

New Comment Policy

Given the very weird, and apparently inappropriate, anonymous comment left this evening (though what is anonymous, given how easy it is to track an ISP), all future comments must come from Google accounts. And once again, please review the comment policy to the left before posting a comment.

Dom Martinho 2004

A "cheaper" read produced by Quinta do Carmo, which is owned by Domaines Barons de Rothschild (as a side note, I once had the pleasure of taking a wine tasting class run by a vice president of the wholly owned subsidiary of DBR that was responsible for distributing its wines in the United States). In fact, it was the Quinta do Carmo wines that got me into dry Portuguese table wines.

But back to the Dom Martinho. The wine has a great purple/violet color. The nose is coffee and dark fruits, including cherry and plum, with some hint of wood on the nose (maybe cedar). With the right amount of tannins (this wine would be great with a medium bodied meat), it coats the palate. The finish lingers, making this wine very enjoyable. At $14 retail, this is a great bargain. Three and a half stars (with a half star for value) out five.

Saturday is going to be fun

Expensive wines up for auction. An 118 page catalog. Meanwhile, worldwide, the financial markets are imploding. This is going to be fun!

Wine tasting tips from "The Onion"

Here they are. My personal favorite? "The quality of a wine is inversely proportional to the viciousness of the animal depicted on the label."

A not surprising result

From Bloomberg, a not surprising result:

Prices for Bordeaux first-growths including Chateau Lafite and Margaux held stable at Sotheby's first wine sale this year in London, with right-bank producers Petrus and Cheval Blanc accounting for seven of the top 10 lots.

. . . .

``I think it's indicative of the market at the moment,'' said Stephen Mould, senior director of Sotheby's international wine department. ``Prices have probably flattened out a bit.''

Wine is a luxury good and as people become more concerned with their own financial health, discretionary spending on luxuries is cut back. In short, this could lead to "interesting times" for California producers who will be subjected to high fuel costs, increased labor costs, and a weakening economy. Even more, could this lead to a drop in the prices for the soon-to-be-released 2005 Bordeaux. In effect, did the Bordelais decide to cash in too late?

Saint-Jean-Des-Graves 2005

A Sauvignon blanc from the Graves region of Bordeaux. Typical straw color for Sauvignon blanc, with grape fruit and maybe a hint of steel on the nose. Relatively mild acidity and very dry on the palate, though I suspect this wine is now old enough that it has lost some of its bite. I'm glad I didn't wait any longer to open this -- a definite drink now kind of wine. Two and a half out of five stars.

Wine and big four accounting?

Yes, someone made the connection. (HT: The Professor.)

Snobbery

An influential wine critic recently wrote:

Sometimes, it seems, that having an opinion about a wine is as important if not more so than having actually tried it. It’s easy to knock a $200 Cabernet for price, or ding a cult Pinot for being Syrah-ish.

I say this having had many occasions where I’ve talked to wine drinkers and after discussing wines, it becomes apparent that we have entirely different impressions.

Most times I ask: “Have you ever tried the wine?” Or “Are we talking about the same wine?”

You’d be amazed by how many times those same people say that, well, no, they haven’t tried it … but they’ve heard.

For now, I will leave to the side the implicit defense of Syrah-ish Pinot and $200 Cult Cabernet (which, given the difficulty of getting a Cult Cab, turns to at least $500 in the secondary market) -- but thank you, Mr. Critic, for implicitly identifying where you stand on that debate.

Instead, look at his response to such criticisms and how that response is used: "Have you tried the wine?" In this context, his response is used to shut up the counterparty, and not to defend the criticized practice. Of course, the circumstances demonstrate how unfair this response is. As the California critic for Wine Spectator, he is able to try thousands of wines a year -- both in his job as an official reviewer, and through the access that job gives him to the wine industry. How likely is it that he has to pay for even a fraction of those wines? Given the prices of California wine (especially the Cult Cabs), he is probably able to put six figures worth of wine in his mouth every year.

Six figures. And he begrudges his counterparty for complaining about the implicit lack of access for Cult Cabs found in their prices. In effect, his response is equivalent to someone of privilege scoffing at those less fortunate because of their lack of privilege.

This is snobbery. A better response would have been to say: "Have you tried the wine? If not, let's try it together and share our thoughts then." Wine should always be about discovery, and even the uninitiated will teach the experienced a thing or two.

Unfortunately, wine is a field that tends to collect snobs, whether it is the privileged few who look down on the uninitiated, or the ignorant who like to puff up their chests by feigning knowledge. By reinforcing the appearance of knowing more about wine than someone else (no matter the actual level of knowledge), one tries to come off as cultured in a way that one is not. In either case, how one treats their knowledge of wine is a great check for arrogance, intellectual thuggery, or insincerity, and gives new meaning to the phrase: In vino veritas.

If the presidential candidates were wines, what wines would they be?

Just for fun, I've decided to run through the front running candidates for president, and try and figure out which wine they would be. Ok, that's really just an excuse for me to get briefly political, but keep true to the theme of this blog.

Hillary Clinton
Clinton's the easiest one of the bunch: Chardonnay. A lot of people love Chardonnay, and a lot of people hate it. Need I say more?

John Edwards
Edwards would be Cabernet Franc. After all, Cabernet Franc's greatest claim to fame is when it's blended with another wine, but rarely reaches the highest heights when it stands on its own.

Rudy Giuliani
Pinot noir can be a thin skinned wine that can still exhibit amazing character if it ripens under greater than normal heat. However, Pinot can have a short lifespan. After a few years, the qualities that drew your initial attention will fade and you'll wonder why you liked it to begin with.

Michael Huckabee
A Viognier, with some character on the nose but often no real structure to the body.

John McCain
No doubt, McCain's Syrah. A wine that can improve with age, and can be described as meaty and powerful yet moderate (compared to other reds).

Barack Obama
Obama's a Sauvignon blanc. Under the right conditions, Sauvignon blanc can improve and develop over time. Or, the wine can be pleasant up front, but doesn't have the depth to improve and simply fades away.

Mitt Romney
A Riesling can range from sweet to dry, and seems like it can't make up its mind. If any wine could be called a flip-flopper, Riesling would be it.

Fred Thompson
While a Vintage Port has depth, nuance and some fire, it is completely undervalued by the market.

UPDATE: An individual known only as "Chicago Guy" disagrees with the Thompson analysis:

I think the explanation for Thompson is wrong. He may be a port, but ports are "fortified" with extra liquor as a preservative. Also, they tend to have more "free radicals" as they have been aging for years and exposed to the elements for a bit too long. This causes the port to be complex at first taste, but because of the extra alcohol and free radicals, only a small amount can be drunk at one time and often leaves a headache and regrets the next day.

To which I reply: Bollocks. To quote Samuel Johnson, "Claret is the liquor for boys; Port, for men; but he who aspires to be a hero must drink brandy." So, as I'm sure Thompson would say, man up and enjoy some Port (and a snifter of brandy while you're at it, too).

(BTW, he's confusing a Tawny Port for a Vintage Port, in that Vintage Ports receive a similar amount of barrel aging as a typical high-end claret. Tawnies can age for decades.)

A question?

Should I expand this blog's coverage to include scotch and cognac?

Bogle Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Leather and grass on the nose. The palate is watery and thin. Bleh. Maybe if I had enough glasses of it, I would start to enjoy it. One and a half out of five stars.

UPDATE: On second thought, I can't even finish the glass. I'm switching to scotch.

New visitors.

For the (many) new visitors to this blog, please, feel free to send me an email or post in the comments if you have any questions or thoughts. I would appreciate any comments (or even, criticisms). The email address is: 77vintage.rick -at- gmail.com

Does more expensive wine taste better?

Here is a report about an interesting study from CalTech. I could swear I wrote about this topic before, but I cannot find the post. In any event, here is a quote from the article:

Researchers from the California Institute of Technology and Stanford's business school have directly seen that the sensation of pleasantness that people experience when tasting wine is linked directly to its price. And that's true even when, unbeknownst to the test subjects, it's exactly the same Cabernet Sauvignon with a dramatically different price tag.

I am not going to go off on a rant about this study like some wine writers have, and I liked that the researchers apparently took a $90 bottle of wine and claimed that it was a $10 bottle of wine in doing this study. Nor am I going to get bent out of shape that some, foreign wine critics have taken this study as a sign that Americans are concerned only about price, not value.

Instead, nothing about this study surprised me because so often expectations can influence one's enjoyment of wine. Imagine you bought a $350 bottle of wine. You open it up with your significant other over a great meal (maybe some candles are lit). Maybe even, with the first glass, you get engaged. But, suppose the wine is average. Would you not want that wine to taste better than it tastes? And since perception is such a key part about enjoying wine, and your own desires can influence your own perceptions, is it not realistic to expect that one would view the wine as exceptional?

Now, here is the funny thing. I can give an example where I have known the prices of two wines (because I paid for both of them), I enjoyed those wines in the same night with a great group of people, and my views on the wine did not match the results of the study. Here is one of the wines. Here is the other. And the second one was significantly better than the first, and significantly cheaper.

So what does this all mean? Simply, that one's expectations can influence one's perceptions. But, often the best way to appreciate or enjoy wine (or anything) is to let those expectations go and enjoy what is right in front of you. Abandon the view that a wine that costs $350 must be great. Abandon the expectation that a $5 wine must be terrible. Simply recognize the wine for what it is, and enjoy. If I have learned any lesson from my exploration of wine, it would be to recognize the value of the thing that is right in front of you.

A nice introduction to wine appreciation.

I recently came across this useful introduction to wine tasting. Enjoy!

Plumpjack Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, pt. II

Wow. What a difference a year makes. Maybe it was the glass, but the wine didn't show the same extreme dark fruits that the bottle last year showed. Thus, the dark fruits and notes of vanilla were not as prevalent. On the other hand, the wine was more well-rounded, and the tannins were not nearly as strong. A very enjoyable wine, which was easily consumed. Sadly, I don't think this was a wine that I would want to age. Three and a half out of five stars.

Why decant?

Last night, the "lovely young lady" asked me when one should decant a wine (I will write another post at a later date about why the question was raised). There's one, clearly accepted reason for decanting wine, and there is another, more controversial reason to decant.

First, some wines are likely to have sediment. Vintage Ports, for example, are bottle aged with the skin fragments of the wine grapes in the bottle. These fragments can be substantial in size and, take it from me, one does not want to consume them. Other wines, as they age, will throw down tartrates which are harmless, but aren't pleasant to look at in one's glass.

The second reason some people argue a wine should be decanted is to aerate it by exposing all of the wine to oxygen. On the other hand some researchers have argued that decanting actually has negative effects on wine (or at least, some varietals). I, honestly, fall in the former category for certain types of wines (young, powerful wines). After all, when one wants to open a bottle... why should a little thing like youth get in the way?

Envy

Somewhat humorously: I am envious of whomever can buy this wine.

Top ten list from 2007

I think I'm a little overdue in posting this, but here's a top ten list of my favorite wines from 2007.

1. Dominus Estate Napa Valley Napanook Vineyard 1996. An amazing, amazing wine, and enjoyed with two of my best friends (whom I haven't seen in almost a year). Smooth, filled with fruit and amazing character. Worth buying, and great to enjoy (especially over some Venison with Maytag Blue Butter).

2. Grgich Hills Paris Tasting Commemorative Chardonnay 2003. A great wine, and enjoyed with a wonderful person. Great memories.

3. Francois Chidaine Montlouis Sur Loire Les Boumais 2005. An amazing wine, and really shows how great Chenin blanc can be. As complex as a Chardonnay, but not as in your face.

4. Plumpjack Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2004. I'm glad I have a second bottle of this... and I'm eager to open it!

5. Dow's Vintage Port 1994. I had only a taste of this at the Philadelphia Wine Festival, but it was almost worth the price of admission (okay, I'm probably overstating that). Great wine, and it makes me wonder about the Bishop of Norwich.

6. Crozes-Hermitage Paul Jaboulet Aine "Thalabert" 2003. A wonderful Rhone, and enjoyed at a great restaurant.

7. Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes 2001. A great Sauternes, I can't wait until I open the d'Yquem.

8. Grgich Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2004. I can't wait for the 750 ml bottles to come out!

9. Quinta do Vale Meao Douro 2003. I can still taste it, and I wish I had a bottle of it right now.... Maybe I can pick one up when I'm home in February?

10. Vasco Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino 2001. It turned me on to Brunellos.

And looking over this list, and the host of wines I've tried over the past year, and I can say that I feel really lucky to be able to enjoy this hobby.

A matter of enjoyment.

I love wine. I moved cross country because I love wine. I write this blog because I love wine. I love relaxing at night with a great bottle of wine. I love the history, the science and the art that goes into modern winemaking.

Of course, sometimes I love it more than others. I most enjoy having wine with great friends, or a special someone. Wine can be a very intimate thing. Certainly, I'll enjoy a glass at a party. But consuming a bottle with one or two people changes how it's enjoyed, and changes how that time with those special people is enjoyed. As I said, it's an intimacy thing (and the alcohol certainly helps), and I would expect that most people who approach life or wine in a similar manner know what I mean. In short, enjoy the moments while they're there.

2005 Les Champauvins Domaine Grand Veneur Cotes du Rhone Villages

Ruby to purple in color, this wine has a nice bouquet of black pepper, blueberry and blackberry. Well-rounded fruit on the palate, though the aftertaste is somewhat limited. Overall, a nice wine at a decent price. Three and a half stars (with a half-star for value).

Quinta do Vale Meao

I've received a ton of hits recently for people searching for reviews on Quinta do Vale Meao. Here are my notes on the 2004 and 2003. These are very enjoyable wines, both by themselves or with a nice, hearty meal. In fact, I wish I could find a good supplier of these wines in the Bay Area (while Total Wine always seemed to keep them stocked, I don't think they've made it west of the Rocky Mountains). These wines have cost about $65 to $80 for recent vintages which, while expensive, is a better bargain than what one would find from top producers in California and Bordeaux -- and, I've found these wines will easily compete with those producers in terms of quality. So, if you're thinking about buying a bottle, pick up two (you'll regret not having one around).

If only....

Great article from Slate... and it makes me wish I had discovered wine about 6 years ago, instead of 3.

Grgich Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Very young wine, with deep purple color. Aromas are intense, with plum, blackberry, currant, mocha and herb. The tannins are powerful and rich. Decant, or wait at least two years before opening -- but it should be delicious after some bottle aging! Three and a half out of five stars. Tasted from a half-bottle.

What's the deal with Champagne?

To me, nothing symbolizes more that enjoying wine is as much about context, as it is the quality of wine, than Champagne or sparkling wine. Going back hundreds of years, Champagne has been a wine for celebration. Even Dom Perignon, the monk credited with inventing sparkling Champagne (although he did not do so), is credited with saying "Come quickly, I am drinking the stars!" when he tasted his "first" glass. In short, Champagne has a history that signifies exuberance, celebration, joy. But let's be frank -- there's a lot of bland Champagnes or sparkling wines on the market, and yet people will joyfully celebrate the New Year, toast a co-worker or newly married couple with those same, bland wines.

So here's a question: would one rather celebrate a great event with a wine that will be remembered? And is a still wine a better value than a sparkling wine for such celebration?

News Year's Resolutions

It's 2008, so I'm making some New Year's Resolutions... and I'll come back next year to see how I did.

1. Post at least three times a week to the blog.

2. Go to a wine producing region outside the United States.

3. Try a varietal I have never had before (this one might be tough....).

4. Try to hold out one more year before opening the 1995 Cheval Blanc. Then again, I might panic... after all, it could be drinkable now!

5. Spend less on wine.

6. Start a Crushpad barrel. This one will probably violate # 5.

and....

7. Share more wine with more people!

And for the record... I'm betting I'll only succeed on #s 3 and 7.

UPDATE: #3 was taken care of 5/17/2008.